Crochet Pencil Case: The Boxy Zippered Pattern I Reach For Every August
The quick answer
A crochet pencil case is a small boxy pouch worked in flat rows of half double crochet, folded in half, seamed up the sides, and finished with a 7-inch zipper. Beginner-friendly, 3 to 4 hours start to finish, ~120 yards of worsted-weight yarn, one 5.0 mm hook.
The pattern below makes a 7½ × 3 × 3 inch case — the size that fits a full set of Staedtler triplus, a ruler, and a highlighter without bulging.
Why I keep making this exact case
I have crocheted six pencil cases this year, and I keep coming back to a plain hdc rectangle over granny squares, C2C, or spike stitch. Here is why: hdc gives you a dense, flat fabric that holds its rectangular shape when the zipper goes in — the panel does not sag around the teeth the way a taller stitch does. It is the same reason the classic Annie Design boxy pouch uses hdc rather than dc.
The other reason is speed. Once I stop counting stitches and just crochet the rectangle in front of a movie, the case takes one evening. If you have crocheted a simple market bag before, this project uses the exact same base stitch — just smaller.
Skill level. Advanced beginner. You need chain, hdc, sc, and a whip stitch. No increases, no decreases, no color changes.
What you will need
- Yarn: ~120 yd of worsted-weight (Category 4). I used Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Denim. Cotton also works; it presses flatter.
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H/8).
- Zipper: 7-inch nylon coil, closed-end. Brass tape reads warmer against blue yarn than silver.
- Notions: tapestry needle, sewing needle and matching thread, scissors, 4 stitch markers, one sheet of plastic canvas (optional, for the base).
Gauge: 14 hdc × 11 rows = 4 inches. If yours is looser, drop to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is tighter, go up to 5.5 mm.
The pattern — one flat rectangle
I write patterns in US terms. Everything below is worked flat and turned at the end of each row. The panel is one long strip that folds in half to become the case.
Foundation: Ch 27.
Row 1: Hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (26 hdc)
Rows 2–42: Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st across. Turn. (26 hdc)
After row 42 you should have a rectangle roughly 7½ inches wide and 15 inches tall. Do not fasten off yet — the last row becomes half of the zipper edge, and a live loop makes joining easier.
Folding and side seams
Fold the rectangle in half with wrong sides facing so the two short edges meet at the top. That fold is the base of the case. Place a stitch marker at each corner to keep the fold from creeping while you seam.
Seam each side with sc, working through both loops of both panels: 21 sc up each side. Fasten off and weave in ends. If you want a truly boxy base like the one in the photo, skip the last two rows of the side seam and instead follow the boxed-corner method below.
Boxing the base (optional but worth it)
Pinch each bottom corner into a triangle so the side seam runs down the middle. Measure 1½ inches from the point and stitch across with a running whip stitch. Do the same on the opposite corner. This is what gives the case its standing rectangular footprint instead of a flat pouch shape.
Adding the zipper
The zipper is the step most people skip on — and it is the one that decides whether the case reads homemade or handmade. I hand-sew mine with a backstitch because a machine tends to pucker the crochet fabric.
Open the zipper. Pin one side of the tape to the inside of the top edge, with the teeth sitting just above the crochet. Backstitch through the tape into every second hdc, keeping the thread on the inside. Repeat on the other side. Close the zipper to check alignment before you knot off — if one side sits higher than the other, the case will yawn open when full.
Cheat. Iron the zipper tape flat for 10 seconds on the wool setting before you pin it. A curled tape is what causes wobbly zipper installs, not your stitching.
Blocking, and the plastic-canvas trick
Slide a 3 × 7 inch rectangle of plastic canvas into the bottom of the finished case. It sits invisibly under the base and stops the case from slumping when it is empty. This is the same trick I use in the crochet project bag tutorial — cheap, undetectable, transformative.
For blocking, mist the outside with water, stuff the case with a rolled towel, and leave it overnight. Cotton yarn will hold the boxy shape permanently after one block; wool blends need a re-mist every few months.
Troubleshooting the three things that go wrong
My case is trapezoidal, not rectangular
The turning chain crept into your stitch count. Recount row 2 — you should have exactly 26 hdc, not 27 or 25. The Ch 2 at the start does not count as a stitch in this pattern.
The zipper puckers the top edge
You backstitched into every single hdc instead of every other one. Crochet has more give than the zipper tape, so 1:1 stitching pulls the fabric in. Remove and redo — it is worth the ten extra minutes.
The seams show through the fabric
You seamed with the right sides facing. On a small case, the seam allowance shows as a ridge on the outside. Turn it inside out and re-seam with wrong sides facing (visible seam on the inside).
Make it yours — three quick variations
Once you have the base pattern, the case is a canvas. I keep three versions in rotation: a striped one in cream and navy for the desk, a linen-cotton version I take to cafes, and a smaller 5-inch make-up-brush case (chain 19 instead of 27, rows to 32). If you like this, the drawstring pouch pattern uses the same rectangle-fold logic without the zipper.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a crochet pencil case take to make?
Three to four hours for a confident beginner, including sewing in the zipper. The rectangle itself is about two hours; assembly and zipper are the second half. Do not sit down expecting a 45-minute project — the zipper is what turns it from a rectangle into a case.
What size zipper do I need for this pattern?
A 7-inch closed-end nylon coil zipper. Brass or antique-brass tape reads warmer against natural yarn colors; silver tape works better with brights. Buy one inch longer than the finished top edge if you want the pull to sit inside the case when closed.
Can I make this without a zipper?
Yes. Skip rows 41 and 42, add a 20-stitch button loop at one top corner, and sew a wooden or coconut button opposite. It becomes a flap pouch. Or convert it to a drawstring case by working three rows of ch-2 sp mesh at the top and threading twisted cord through.
What is the best yarn for a crochet pencil case?
Worsted-weight cotton or a wool-cotton blend. Pure wool works but pills against the zipper over time. Acrylic works but shows every crease. If you want the case to press flat in a bag, go 100% cotton; if you want it to spring back, go blend.
Is this pattern suitable for absolute beginners?
Almost. If you can chain, hdc, and sc, the crochet portion is beginner-level. The zipper install is what pushes it into advanced-beginner territory — but you can skip it with the button-loop version above and keep the whole project beginner-friendly.
Questions on this pattern? Email me at support@wavode.com.