Campfire Keychain

This campfire keychain crochet pattern makes a 2¾-inch mini bonfire: three layers of flat flames in red-orange, orange and yellow, five little logs with tan cut ends, and a ring of pebbles in soft greys. It's DK cotton on a 2.5 mm hook, and it's a great way to use up scraps. You'll need about 60 to 75 yards in total across several colors. Plan on 3 to 4 hours, with the little stones taking the most time.

Key Takeaways

• Four easy builds: a small stuffed base, flat layered flames, five tube logs and a ring of tiny stones.
• The flames are worked like leaves, around a short chain, then finished with slip-stitch flicks for the flickering edges.
• The big flame is two layers, so every sewing tail hides inside, and the keyring loop is sandwiched in the tip for strength.
• About 60–75 yd of DK #3 cotton. No color needs more than 15 yd. Metal hardware means it's not for children under 3.

Why I love this campfire

Some keychains are cute. This one's cozy. It's the charm I'd clip to a hiking backpack, a camp mug bag or a fall tote. It also makes a sweet little gift for anyone who counts down to camping season.

The part I'm proudest of is the flames. They're flat, layered pieces, not a stuffed blob. That's what gives them the clean, graphic look of a campfire emoji in real yarn. The inner flame is a simple teardrop. The middle and outer flames add small "flicks" in the edging round, and those little spikes make the whole fire look like it's moving.

The other trick is hidden. The outer flame is made twice and sewn back to back. All the sewing tails from the smaller flames get tucked between the two layers, so the back of the keychain looks as tidy as the front. Isn't that the side people always turn over to check?

Pattern at a glance

• Stitches: single crochet in continuous rounds, plus hdc, dc and treble crochet for the flames.
• Yarn: DK #3 cotton, about 60–75 yd (55–69 m) total.
• Hook: 2.5 mm (US B/1–C/2). It's smaller than a DK ball band suggests, on purpose, so the stuffing stays hidden.
• Construction: 7 steps: flames (outer flame × 2) → logs and stones → layer the flames → keyring loop → base → assemble → stone ring.
• Finished size: about 2¾ in (7 cm) tall and 2 in (5 cm) wide, without the keyring. Tension will shift this a little.
• Time: 3–4 hours. Allow about 1 hour for the flames, 30 minutes for the base, 45 for the logs, 1 hour for the stones and 30 for assembly.
• Skill level: advanced beginner. You should be comfortable with a magic ring, working around a foundation chain and sewing small pieces.

What you'll need

Yarn (DK #3 cotton, ~60–75 yd / 55–69 m total)

• Red-orange (outer flame × 2, keyring loop): 10–12 yd.
• Orange (middle flame): 3–4 yd.
• Yellow (inner flame): 2 yd.
• Brown (logs): 13–15 yd. A warm chocolate brown.
• Tan (log ends): 3–4 yd. A light biscuit shade reads as cut wood.
• Charcoal or medium grey (base): 10–12 yd.
• Stones: 5–6 yd each of 4 soft neutrals, for example light grey, medium grey, blue-grey and greige. The base color can double as one of them.

These amounts come from the stitch counts in the pattern, plus sewing tails, with a little margin. Keep every color a true DK #3 cotton. A worsted #4 cotton such as Lily Sugar 'n Cream will make that piece noticeably bigger than the rest.

Hook and notions

• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• A small pinch of polyfil stuffing
• 1 keychain with a split ring and a short chain
• Tapestry needle
• 2 stitch markers
• A few pins

Tension

You don't need a strict gauge here. For the stuffed pieces, aim for a firm fabric where the stuffing doesn't peek through. If it does, drop to a 2.25 mm hook. The flat flames just need to lie flat without curling.

Abbreviations (US terms)

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet (yarn over twice)
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible decrease (sc2tog through the front loops)
• BLO: back loop only
• R: round
• st(s): stitch(es)

Stuffed pieces are worked in a continuous spiral. Don't join at the end of rounds, and move your marker up each round.

Step 1 — Crochet the flames

All three flames are worked the same way as a leaf. You work up one side of a foundation chain, round the bottom, and back down the other side. Then a slip-stitch edging adds the flicks.

For every flame, leave an 8-inch starting tail. The first chain you make ends up at the bottom of the flame, so that tail comes out right where you'll sew. The tip is where the last round ends.

Inner flame (make 1, in yellow)

Ch 7.

Side 1 (tip to bottom): Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the first ch (this is the tip), sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, then 5 dc in the last ch (this is the bottom, next to your starting tail).

Side 2 (bottom to tip): Rotate and work along the other side of the chain. Dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the tip ch.

Point: Ch 2, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, then sl st in the tip again.

Fasten off with a short tail and weave it into the back. That's a plump teardrop, about ⅞ in (2.2 cm) tall.

Middle flame (make 1, in orange)

Ch 10.

Side 1 (tip to bottom): Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the first ch (tip), sc in the next ch, hdc in each of the next 2 ch, dc in each of the next 4 ch, then 6 dc in the last ch (bottom).

Side 2 (bottom to tip): Rotate and work along the other side of the chain. Dc in each of the next 4 ch, hdc in each of the next 2 ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the tip ch.

Point: Ch 3, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the next ch, then sl st in the tip again.

Flick edging. A small flick is: ch 4, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch. Then carry on along the edge.

Now slip-stitch all the way around the flame, working into the tops of the stitches:

• Down side 1: sl st in the next 3 sts, small flick, sl st in the next 4 sts.
• Around the bottom: sl st in each of the 6 bottom sts.
• Up side 2: sl st in the next 4 sts, small flick, sl st in the next 3 sts.
• Sl st in the tip.

Fasten off with a short tail and weave it into the back. The middle flame is about 1½ in (3.8 cm) tall with one flick on each side.

Outer flame (make 2, in red-orange)

You'll make two identical pieces, a front and a back.

Ch 14.

Side 1 (tip to bottom): Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st in the first ch (tip), sc in the next ch, hdc in each of the next 2 ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, tr in each of the next 6 ch, then 7 tr in the last ch (bottom).

Side 2 (bottom to tip): Rotate and work along the other side of the chain. Tr in each of the next 6 ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in each of the next 2 ch, sc in the next ch, sl st in the tip ch.

Point: Ch 4, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next ch, then sl st in the tip again.

Flick edging. You'll use the small flick from the middle flame, plus a big flick: ch 6, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch.

• Down side 1: sl st in the next 3 sts, big flick, sl st in the next 4 sts, small flick, sl st in the next 4 sts.
• Around the bottom: sl st in each of the 7 bottom sts.
• Up side 2: sl st in the next 4 sts, small flick, sl st in the next 4 sts, big flick, sl st in the next 3 sts.
• Sl st in the tip.

Fasten off with a short tail. Each outer flame is about 2 in (5 cm) tall and a little wider across the flicks.

The flicks sit at the same distance from the tip on both sides. So when you lay the two pieces back to back, the flicks line up perfectly.

Step 2 — Make the logs and stones

These small stuffed pieces all close with a long tail at the end you sew with, so make them all now and set them aside.

Logs (make 5: tan end, brown bark)

The magic ring is the cut end of the log, the tan circle that faces out. The closing round is the inner end, which tucks into the fire, and that's where your sewing tail comes out.

R1 (tan): 8 sc in MR. (8 sts) Switch to brown. R2 (brown): Sc in BLO in each st around. (8) The unworked tan loops make a neat rim around the cut end. R3–R7: Sc in each st around. (8)

Push in a tiny bit of stuffing with the back of your hook.

R8: Dec 4 times. (4)

Fasten off leaving an 8-inch tail at the closing end. Thread it through the front loops of the last 4 sts and pull tight. Each log is about 1 in (2.5 cm) long.

Optional: with brown yarn, make one small straight stitch in a curve on each tan end, for a tree ring. Skip it if you like them plain.

Stones (make 12: 3 in each of 4 colors)

The magic ring is the top of the pebble. The closing round is the underside, where the tail comes out for sewing.

R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts) R2: Sc 1, inc; repeat 3 times. (9) R3: Sc in each st around. (9) R4: Sc 1, dec; repeat 3 times. (6)

Tuck in a pinch of stuffing, or just the magic-ring tail. Fasten off leaving an 8-inch tail at the closing round, thread it through the last 6 sts and pull tight. Press each stone between your fingers so it flattens a little, like a real pebble.

Tension varies, so you might only need 11. Make 11 first, test-fit them around the base, and make a 12th only if there's a gap.

Step 3 — Layer the flames

Place the yellow inner flame on the orange middle flame, with their bottom edges lined up and the yellow centered. Using the yellow tail, sew around the yellow edge with small stitches. Knot the tail on the back. Then place the middle flame on one of the red-orange outer flames the same way, bottoms lined up, and sew it on with the orange tail. Knot it on the back.

This red-orange piece is now your front. The side with the knots is its wrong side. The second red-orange flame stays plain. It becomes the back.

Step 4 — Attach the keyring loop

Make the loop (in red-orange). A slip-stitched ring would only give you one tail. This loop needs a tail at each end, so work it as a plain chain.

Leave an 8-inch starting tail. Ch 6. Fasten off leaving a second 8-inch tail.

Thread the chain through the end link of your keychain chain. Fold it in half so the link sits at the fold, with both tails side by side.

Sandwich it in the tip. Lay the loop on the wrong side of the front flame, with the folded end sticking up above the tip by about ½ in (1.3 cm). Sew each loop tail down through the tip and the flame just below it, 5 to 6 stitches per tail. That's 10 or more stitches. Knot both tails on the wrong side.

Join the front and back flames. Place the back outer flame on top, wrong sides together, so every knot and tail is hidden between the layers. Line up the tips and flicks. Cut a 30-inch length of red-orange. Starting at the bottom, whipstitch the two layers together all the way around, flicks included. At the tip, go through the loop as well as both layers, twice. That's the load-bearing point, so over-sew it. Stop back at the bottom and leave the rest of the yarn hanging. You'll use it, plus the two 8-inch starting tails, to sew the fire onto the base in Step 6.

Step 5 — Crochet the base (in charcoal)

The magic ring is the center of the top, where the fire sits. The closing round is the center of the bottom. You'll pause partway down to sew the flames and logs on, then finish.

R1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts) R2: Inc in each st around. (12) R3: Sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. (18) R4: Sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. (24) R5: Sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. (30) R6: Sc in BLO in each st around. (30) This turns the edge down. R7: Sc in each st around. (30) R8: In BLO, sc 3, dec; repeat 6 times. (24) This makes the bottom corner.

Stop here. Pull up a long loop and slip it onto a stitch marker so it can't unravel. Don't cut the yarn. You'll finish R9–R11 during Step 6.

Step 6 — Assemble the campfire

The fire and logs go onto the base while it's still open, so you can knot every tail inside it. Then you stuff and close the base.

Sew the fire onto the base. Stand the flames up on top of the base, bottom edge down. Place them slightly behind the center, across R3–R4. Using the leftover yarn and both starting tails, whipstitch the bottom edge of the flames to the base. Go through both flame layers each time, and go along the bottom twice, back and forth. The whole base hangs from this seam, so take 14 stitches or more. Bring the tails inside the base through the opening and knot them to a stitch there.

Arrange the logs. Pin all 5 logs first, with the tan cut ends pointing outward and the inner ends meeting in front of the flame bottom:

• 2 back logs: one on each side of the flames, angled back at about 10 and 2 o'clock.
• 3 front logs: one pointing straight at you at 6 o'clock, and one on each side at about 8 and 4 o'clock.

The front logs should rest against the bottom of the flames and hide the flame seam. Once you're happy, sew each log's inner end to the base with 4 or 5 stitches. Take 2 more stitches under the middle of the log so it doesn't twist. Catch the flame bottom when a log touches it. Bring each tail inside the base and knot it.

Finish the base. Put your loop back on the hook and pick up in charcoal.

R9: Sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. (18)

Stuff the base lightly. It should feel plump but still sit flat.

R10: Sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. (12) R11: Dec 6 times. (6)

Fasten off, thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 sts, pull tight and weave the tail deep into the base.

Step 7 — Add the stone ring

Sew the stones around the side of the base, centered on R6–R7, so each one peeks a little above the top edge. Mix the colors so no two matching stones sit side by side. Sew each with its tail, 4 or 5 stitches into the base, and one stitch into the stone beside it so the ring holds together. Weave each tail into the base under its own stone.

Safety and care

Safety. This is a keychain with a metal split ring and chain, plus lots of small sewn-on pieces. It isn't a toy and isn't safe for children under 3, because the hardware and small parts are choking hazards. For a child's decor piece, leave off the keychain hardware, and give it to older kids only.

Care. Spot clean with a damp cloth. If it needs a proper wash, hand-wash in cool water with a drop of mild soap, squeeze it in a towel and let it dry flat with the flames upright. Don't tumble-dry, because the flat flames can curl.

Wear. Cotton chain can stretch with daily use. If the keyring loop starts to lengthen, sew a second loop beside the first, through the tip of both flame layers.

Easy variations

• Toasted marshmallow: crochet a tiny white oval, tip it with a little brown, and sew it to a brown chain "stick" leaning against one log.
• Blue-flame fire: swap the flames for navy, bright blue and pale aqua for a cool, magical look.
• Bag-tag trio: make a campfire, a mini tent and a pine tree from scraps, and hang them on one ring for a camping-club gift.
• Shelf size: use worsted #4 cotton and a 3.5 mm hook with the same counts. It grows to about 4 in (10 cm) tall, which suits a shelf better than a keychain.

Troubleshooting

The flames curl at the edges

The slip-stitch edging is too tight. Work it more loosely, or go up to a 2.75 mm hook for the edging only. A gentle press under a warm iron with a cloth between also helps cotton lie flat.

The flicks point in odd directions

That's normal off the hook. Pin each flick so it points up and slightly outward, then catch it in the whipstitch when you join the two outer layers. The seam holds it in place.

The fire leans backward on the base

The flames are sewn too far back. Unpick the seam and move them closer to the center, across R3–R4. The front logs also brace the flames, so make sure they're touching the flame bottom.

There's a gap in the stone ring

Make one more stone, or space the stones out evenly and sew them slightly lower on the base. A 12th stone in the base color blends in well.

Frequently asked questions

How much yarn does the campfire keychain use?

About 60–75 yd (55–69 m) of DK #3 cotton. That's roughly 10–12 yd of red-orange, 3–4 yd of orange, 2 yd of yellow, 13–15 yd of brown, 3–4 yd of tan, 10–12 yd of charcoal and 5–6 yd each of four stone colors. Scraps are plenty.

Can I skip the stones?

Yes. Without the stones, the campfire is just flames and logs on a charcoal base. It's quicker, a little under 3 hours. The stone ring adds the "real campfire" feeling, though, so I'd keep it if you have scraps of grey.

How long does this campfire take to crochet?

About 3 to 4 hours. Plan roughly an hour for the four flame pieces, 30 minutes for the base, 45 for the logs, an hour for the stones and 30 minutes for assembly. It fits into one long evening or two short ones.

Is it safe for kids?

Not for children under 3. The metal keyring and chain, and the many small sewn pieces, are choking hazards. For older kids, it's a fun backpack charm. For decor, leave off the hardware.

Can I sell the finished campfires?

Yes. You're welcome to sell finished campfires made from this free pattern at markets, on Etsy or as gifts. Please credit "Pattern by Wavode" and link back to this page. Please don't republish the written pattern or my photos as your own.

UK terms note

This pattern uses US terms. In UK terms, sc becomes double crochet (dc), hdc becomes half treble (htr), dc becomes treble (tr) and tr becomes double treble (dtr). The other abbreviations don't change. DK is the same yarn weight on both sides of the Atlantic.

Related patterns on Wavode

• Crochet palm tree keychain: a mini palm on a sandy island, the summer twin of this campfire.
• Crochet acorn keychain: a quick fall acorn for the same camping backpack.
• Crochet mushroom keychain: a kawaii forest mushroom in about 45 minutes.
• Panda keychain: another one-evening bag charm on the same 2.5 mm hook.

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Made a campfire? Tag #wavodecrochet on Pinterest. I re-pin every finished make and credit the maker.

Pattern by Clara Hartwell for Wavode. Questions? Email me at support@wavode.com.