Eyelet Waves Crochet Blanket: Free Ripple Pattern (Step-by-Step)

The eyelet waves crochet blanket uses a simple 14-stitch repeat plus 4 to create a gentle ripple with small decorative eyelet holes along each peak. It works up in about 15–20 hours using a 5.5mm hook and worsted-weight yarn — most crocheters finish one over a long weekend.

Key Takeaways

• Chain multiple: 14 + 4 — resize it any way you like.
• Skill level: easy — just chains, double crochet, a 3-stitch decrease and one repeating row.
• Finished size: ~130 cm × 150 cm (adjustable) using a 5.5mm hook + worsted-weight yarn.
• Perfect for anyone who's mastered basic granny squares and wants to try their first ripple.

What Is an Eyelet Waves Blanket?

An eyelet waves blanket is a variation on the classic ripple afghan, sometimes called a chevron blanket, with tiny decorative holes — the "eyelets" — spaced along each wave crest. Those eyelets come from strategically placed chain-1 spaces that catch the light and give the finished piece an almost lace-like feel.

It's part of the wider ripple-stitch family, and it's the pattern I recommend to anyone who's tired of straight rows but not ready for cables or intarsia. The rhythm is meditative. You'll fall into it by row three.

How Long Does an Eyelet Waves Blanket Take to Crochet?

Plan on 15–20 hours for a throw-sized blanket (~130 × 150 cm). A confident intermediate crocheter working ~30 rows per hour finishes in about a weekend. First-timers should budget closer to 25 hours — expect to frog row 2 once you figure out the ripple rhythm. That's normal.

Want a full bedspread (200 × 220 cm)? Roughly double it: 35–45 hours total. Split it across two weeks of evenings and it flies.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Medium-weight (4) worsted, ~5 balls (A, B, C, D, E — about 200g each)
• Hook: 5.5mm (US I/9)
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors and a measuring tape

Skill level: Easy · Finished size: Approx. 130 cm × 150 cm (adjustable)

Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch	chain
dc	double crochet
dc3tog	double crochet 3 together (a 2-stitch decrease)
hdc	half double crochet
sc	single crochet
sk	skip
sp	space

Pattern Notes Before You Start

• The blanket is worked in a ripple (chevron) pattern.
• Chain a multiple of 14, plus 4. Each wave is 14 stitches.
• The ch 3 at the start of every row does not count as a stitch.
• Gauge: about 13 dc = 10 cm (4 in) with the 5.5 mm hook.
• Use any number of colors you like — I used five, but three or even one works.
• Change color at the end of the row for clean stripes.

How Do You Crochet the Eyelet Waves Blanket?

You crochet it in six simple steps: a foundation chain, a first ripple row, then the same ripple row over and over. Below is the full pattern. All abbreviations follow US terms — if you're used to UK terms, see the Craft Yarn Council conversion chart.

Step 1 — Foundation Chain

Ch a multiple of 14 + 4. For the blanket shown, chain 172 (14 × 12 = 168, + 4 = 172), which gives 12 waves. Adjust to your desired width — every extra 14 chains adds one full wave.

Step 2 — Row 1 (First Ripple Row)

2 dc in the 4th ch from hook (half peak). Dc in next 5 ch, dc3tog over next 3 ch (valley), dc in next 5 ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch (peak). Repeat from * to * until 14 ch remain. Dc in next 5 ch, dc3tog over next 3 ch, dc in next 5 ch, 2 dc in last ch (half peak). Turn. (169 stitches, counting each ch-1 as a stitch)

Step 3 — Row 2 (The Ripple Row)

Ch 3 (doesn't count as a stitch). 2 dc in first st. Dc in next 5 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, dc in next 5 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 space. Repeat from * to * until 14 sts remain. Dc in next 5 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in last st. Turn. (169 stitches)

The middle stitch of each dc3tog sits on top of the valley below, and each (dc, ch 1, dc) goes into the ch-1 space of the peak below. That little ch-1 space is the eyelet.

Step 4 — Every Row After

Repeat Row 2 for the whole blanket. Count your stitches every few rows: always 169 for the 12-wave size.

Step 5 — Change Color and Keep Rippling

At the end of any row, drop the working yarn and join the next color. Weave the tail in as you go for fewer ends later — future-you will be grateful. Keep repeating the main pattern row, changing colors in your chosen sequence.

Step 6 — Border and Finishing

Once you've hit your desired length (~110 rows for a standard throw), work one round of single crochet around the entire blanket in your border color. Follow the peaks and valleys along the top and bottom to preserve the wavy edge. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Step 7 — Block and Style

If your blanket looks slightly wonky, wet-block it: dampen with cool water, shape it flat, and let it dry overnight. That's the difference between "handmade" and "homemade."

How Do You Get Clean Color Changes on a Ripple Blanket?

Change color on the very last yarn-over of the previous row — pull the new color through to complete the final stitch. This keeps the new color from bleeding into the last stitch of the old row, and eliminates the tiny "V" of old color that ruins otherwise clean stripes.

My other trick: weave the tail into the top of the row as you crochet the next one. That way there's nothing to weave in at the end.

Which Yarn Is Best for an Eyelet Waves Blanket?

Medium-weight (4) worsted acrylic or a cotton-acrylic blend is ideal. Acrylic gives the blanket drape and machine-washability — non-negotiable if this is going on a family couch. Pure cotton works too, but the blanket ends up heavier and stretchier over time.

I used Lion Brand Mandala for the sample shown, which auto-changes colors and gave me the gradient effect without buying five separate skeins. For a beginner-friendly all-in-one option, that's my top pick.