Crochet Summer Sweater
This free crochet summer sweater pattern makes a cropped, airy pullover with wide stripes, a boat neckline and long, roomy sleeves. The fabric is moss stitch, which is just single crochet and chain 1, so it stays soft and light in cotton. Every stripe ends with one row of little eyelets that look like a line of lace between the colors. It's made from four rectangles with no shaping. You'll need DK #3 cotton in 2 colors, a 4 mm hook and about 1,390 yards for size S. It comes in 5 sizes, XS to XL.
Key Takeaways
- Four rectangles: a front and back that are identical, plus two sleeves.
- Two stitches: moss stitch for the stripes and a double crochet eyelet row between them.
- Budget 1,295–1,730 yd (1,185–1,580 m) of DK #3 cotton across 2 colors.
- The boat neck is free: you leave the middle of the shoulder seam open.
Why I love this crochet summer sweater
I wanted a sweater for those evenings when a T-shirt isn't enough but wool is far too much. Cotton in moss stitch is perfect for that. It drapes and breathes, and it doesn't feel heavy on your shoulders.
The shape couldn't be simpler. The front and back are the same rectangle. You sew them together at the shoulders and leave the middle open, which gives you a wide boat neck that shows off your collarbones. The sleeves are rectangles too, sewn straight onto the sides of the body. Drop shoulders and a cropped length make it look relaxed and modern with high-waisted jeans.
The stripes do all the styling. They're about 3½ in wide, and each one ends with a row of eyelets. Those little holes catch the light and break up the stripes, so the sweater looks more detailed than it really is.
Skill level. Advanced beginner. You need chain, single crochet, double crochet, color changes in rows and a whipstitch seam. The only thing to watch is the moss stitch edge, and I'll walk you through it below.
What you'll need
Yarn (DK weight #3 cotton, about 1295 (1390, 1510, 1610, 1730) yd / 1185 (1270, 1380, 1470, 1580) m in total)
- Color A (sky blue in my photos): 475 (510, 555, 590, 635) yd.
- Color B (cream): 820 (880, 955, 1020, 1095) yd. Color B gets more yarn because it makes 3 of the 5 stripes and all the edges.
- Any two contrasting colors work with the same yardage. Powder pink and white looks lovely too, or try sage and oatmeal.
- In Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yd / 125 m per 50 g), that's 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) balls of A and 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) balls of B. Rico Essentials Cotton DK works too.
- I worked these totals out from the stitch count. They already include a margin of about 10% for the swatch, the seams and the edging.
Hook
- 4 mm (US G/6).
Notions
- Tapestry needle.
- 6 locking stitch markers.
- Measuring tape and scissors.
Gauge
- Moss stitch on a 4 mm hook: 22 sts × 22 rows = 4 in (10 cm). Each sc and each ch-1 counts as 1 st.
- One full stripe (17 moss rows + 1 eyelet row) measures about 3½ in (9 cm).
Check the gauge before you start. Moss stitch is easy to work too loosely. If you have fewer than 22 sts, go down a hook size. If you have more, go up one.
Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sk: skip
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- RS / WS: right side / wrong side
The stitches (swatch first)
The stitch count is always an odd number. That gives you a sc at both edges of every row.
Swatch foundation: With B, ch 26.
Row A, moss: Ch 1 (doesn't count as a st). Sc in the first st. Ch 1, sk the next st, sc in the next st. Repeat from * to the end. Turn. (25 sts: 13 sc and 12 ch-1 sps)
On the very first row, you work into the chain: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, then repeat from * across.
Row B, moss: Ch 1. Sc in the first sc. Sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk the next sc. Repeat from * until 2 sts remain. Sc in the last ch-1 sp, sc in the last sc. Turn. (25 sts)
Row B has 2 sc side by side at each edge. That keeps the edges straight while the sc in the middle move over by one. Alternate Rows A and B, and each sc lands in a ch-1 sp, which gives you the tiny woven texture.
Eyelet row: Ch 4 (counts as a dc and a ch-1). Sk the next st. Dc in the next st, ch 1, sk the next st. Repeat from * until 1 st remains. Dc in the last st. Turn. (25 sts: 13 dc and 12 ch-1 sps)
The eyelet row always follows a Row A, so each dc sits on a sc and each ch-1 sits on a ch-1. The next row is a Row A again: ch 1, sc in the first dc, then ch 1, sk the ch-1 sp, sc in the next dc across.
One stripe is 17 moss rows, starting and ending with Row A (A, B, A, B … A), then 1 eyelet row. Change color at the end of the eyelet row: work the last yarn-over of the last dc with the new color.
For the swatch, work one stripe in B and one in A. It should measure about 4½ in wide and 7 in tall.
Size chart
| Size | To fit bust | Finished bust | Length | Neck opening | Sleeve width | Yarn (A / B) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 30–32 in | 38¼ in / 97 cm | 17¾ in | 10 in | 16¼ in | 475 / 820 yd |
| S | 34–36 in | 41¾ in / 106 cm | 17¾ in | 10 in | 17 in | 510 / 880 yd |
| M | 38–40 in | 46¼ in / 117 cm | 17¾ in | 10¾ in | 18 in | 555 / 955 yd |
| L | 42–44 in | 49¾ in / 126 cm | 17¾ in | 11 in | 19 in | 590 / 1,020 yd |
| XL | 46–48 in | 54¼ in / 138 cm | 17¾ in | 11 in | 20¼ in | 635 / 1,095 yd |
The sweater is meant to be loose and boxy, with about 6 to 8 in of ease. It's cropped in every size. If you're taller or want it longer, see the FAQ: each extra stripe adds 3½ in.
Instructions are written XS (S, M, L, XL). When only one number is given, it applies to every size.
The pattern, step by step
Part 1: The back and front (make 2 the same)
With B, ch 106 (116, 128, 138, 150).
Row 1 (B): Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. Ch 1, sk the next ch, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across. Turn. (105 (115, 127, 137, 149) sts)
This is your first Row A. Carry on with the stripe pattern:
- Stripe 1 (B): 16 more moss rows (B, A, B … A), then 1 eyelet row. Change to A.
- Stripe 2 (A): 17 moss rows starting with Row A, then 1 eyelet row. Change to B.
- Stripe 3 (B): same as Stripe 2, in B. Change to A.
- Stripe 4 (A): same, in A. Change to B.
- Stripe 5 (B): same, in B.
Prefer blue at the hem and shoulders? Swap the two colors throughout. You'll then need the larger yardage in A instead of B.
Top row (B): Ch 1, sc in the first dc, then sc in each ch-1 sp and each dc across. Fasten off. (105 (115, 127, 137, 149) sc)
This solid row gives the shoulders and neckline a firm edge. The panel measures about 19 (21, 23, 25, 27) in wide and 17¾ in tall.
Make a second panel exactly the same. One is the front and one is the back.
My finding: Carrying the unused color up the side saves you about 20 ends to weave in per panel. In moss stitch the side edge is neat enough that the carried strand hides inside the seam. Just keep it loose, or the edge puckers.
Part 2: The sleeves (make 2)
The sleeves are worked from the cuff up, with the same stripes as the body.
With B, ch 90 (94, 100, 106, 112).
Row 1 (B): Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. Ch 1, sk the next ch, sc in the next ch. Repeat from * across. Turn. (89 (93, 99, 105, 111) sts)
Work Stripes 1 to 5 exactly as for the body, then the top row in B. Fasten off, leaving a 30-inch tail to sew the sleeve in.
Each sleeve is about 16¼ (17, 18, 19, 20¼) in wide and 17¾ in long. That's a wide, straight sleeve that falls past the wrist, so you can push it up or let it hang.
Fold each sleeve in half across its width and place a marker at the center of the top edge.
Part 3: Assembly
Lay the pieces flat, right side up, with the stripes lined up. All seams are whipstitched through the outer loops with B.
- Shoulders and boat neck. Place the front on the back, RS together, top edges lined up. Starting at each outer corner, whipstitch 25 (30, 34, 38, 44) sts toward the center. The middle 55 (55, 59, 61, 61) sts stay open for the neck, about 10 (10, 10¾, 11, 11) in. Want it to slip off one shoulder? See the off-the-shoulder option in the FAQ before you sew.
- Mark the armholes. Open the sweater out flat. On each side edge, measure 8 (8½, 9, 9½, 10) in down from the shoulder seam, on the front and on the back, and place a marker.
- Sew in the sleeves. Match the center marker of each sleeve to the shoulder seam. Spread the top edge of the sleeve between the two armhole markers, pin it and whipstitch it in place. Here you're sewing stitches to row ends, so ease it in evenly.
- Side and sleeve seams. Fold the sweater RS together. Sew each side in one seam: start at the cuff, go along the underarm, then down the side of the body to the hem. Match the stripes as you go. The eyelet rows make good checkpoints.
- Turn it right side out and try it on.
Part 4: The edges
Work all edges in B with the RS facing.
Neckline: Join B at one shoulder seam. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around the open neck, front and back. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Work 1 more round of sc, then fasten off. Two rounds are enough to keep the boat neck from stretching.
Hem: Join B at a side seam. Ch 1, sc in each ch along the bottom edge, all the way around. Join and fasten off.
Cuffs: Join B at the sleeve seam. Ch 1, sc in each ch around. Join and fasten off.
Finishing and blocking
- Weave in every tail through at least 6 sts, then back the other way. Hide the carried strands inside the side seams.
- Wet block the sweater. Soak it in cool water, roll it in a towel and lay it flat. Pat the stripes straight and the eyelet rows level. Let it dry fully. Cotton moss stitch relaxes and softens a lot after its first wash.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, or use a cold delicate cycle inside a laundry bag. Lay flat to dry and reshape it while it's damp. Don't tumble dry: cotton shrinks in heat. Store the sweater folded. A heavy cotton sweater on a hanger grows longer at the shoulders.
Frequently asked questions
How much yarn do I need for this crochet summer sweater? About 1295 (1390, 1510, 1610, 1730) yd of DK #3 cotton for sizes XS to XL. In Paintbox Cotton DK that's 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) balls of the stripe color and 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) balls of cream. Buy each color from one dye lot.
Can I make it longer, or not cropped? Yes. Add one stripe to the front and back for about 3½ in more length. Keep the colors alternating: if you add one stripe, the top stripe becomes A. Allow about 130 (140, 155, 165, 180) yd more for the body.
Can I make the sleeves shorter? Yes. Leave out one stripe at the start for a sleeve about 3½ in shorter, and start with A instead of B so the top stripe still matches the body. Each stripe left out saves about 110 (115, 120, 130, 135) yd for the two sleeves.
Can I make it slip off one shoulder? Yes. Sew each shoulder seam 5 sts shorter: 20 (25, 29, 33, 39) sts instead of 25 (30, 34, 38, 44). The neck opening grows to 65 (65, 69, 71, 71) sts, about 2 in wider, so you can wear it straight or pulled over to one side. Keep the 2 rounds of sc at the neck, or the wider opening stretches out.
Is this sweater warm enough for winter? Not really. Cotton moss stitch with eyelet rows is made for spring evenings and summer nights. For a winter version, try the same rectangles in a wool-blend DK. Check your gauge, because wool usually works up a little wider.
Can I sell sweaters made from this pattern? Yes, you can sell finished sweaters you've made yourself. Please credit "Pattern by Wavode" and link back to this page. Please don't republish the written pattern or my photos.
Related patterns on Wavode
- Navy and cream striped crochet sweater: a warmer, cropped stripe pullover in worsted half double crochet.
- Balloon sleeve crochet sweater: a cozy pullover with full, gathered sleeves.
- Cute crochet top with ruffle straps: a striped summer top in the same DK cotton.
- Crochet ribbed collar top: a cropped polo with short sleeves.
Made this sweater? Tag #wavodecrochet on Pinterest. I re-pin every finished make and credit the maker.
Pattern by Clara Hartwell for Wavode. Questions? Email me at support@wavode.com.
