Crochet Maxi Dress Pattern
This free crochet maxi dress pattern makes a long-sleeved lace dress with a high ribbed collar, an open spiderweb yoke and a full skirt with a deep fan lace hem. It's worked top-down in one piece, so there are no side seams to sew. The yoke and sleeves are columns of double crochet joined by chains that get longer as you go, which gives that airy web across the shoulders. Below the underarms, the bodice and skirt turn solid, with a band of shells and a tie at the waist. You'll need DK #3 cotton, a 4 mm hook and about 2,400 yards for size S. It comes in 5 sizes, XS to XL.
Key Takeaways
- One piece, top-down: yoke, bodice, waist band, skirt and sleeves, with no side seams.
- Three lace stitches: spoke lace for the yoke and sleeves, a shell band at the waist, and fans for the hem and cuffs.
- Budget 2,250–2,950 yd (2,060–2,700 m) of DK #3 cotton in one color.
- A buttoned back opening lets the high collar go over your head.
Why I love this crochet maxi dress
I wanted one dress that feels special without being fussy. The lace sits exactly where it flatters: across the collarbones, down the arms and around the hem. Everything else is a calm, solid fabric that lets the lace stand out.
The yoke is my favorite part, and it's much easier than it looks. Every round is just 2 double crochet, a chain, 2 double crochet, a chain. Each chain gets one stitch longer every few rounds, and the chains hang in little arches between the columns. The web looks complicated, but it comes from one repeat you'll know by heart after ten minutes.
The fit comes from the shape, not from tricky shaping. The bodice narrows a little with four dart lines. The skirt grows evenly into a soft A-line, and the fan border flares out at the hem. A thin crochet tie through the waist band pulls it in as much as you like.
Skill level. Intermediate. You need chain, single crochet, double crochet, front and back post double crochet, working in rounds and in rows, and reading a size table. Nothing is hard on its own. It's simply a long project, so take it one part at a time.
What you'll need
Yarn (DK weight #3 cotton, about 2250 (2400, 2520, 2720, 2950) yd / 2060 (2195, 2305, 2490, 2700) m in one color)
- I used a soft cornflower blue. Any solid color shows the lace well. Avoid variegated yarn: it hides the web.
- In Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yd / 125 m per 50 g), that's 17 (18, 19, 20, 22) balls. Rico Essentials Cotton DK works too. Buy all of it from one dye lot.
- I worked these totals out from the stitch count, part by part. They include a margin of about 10% for the swatch, the waist tie and the ends.
- Cotton makes a dress with weight and drape. It's heavier than a summer top, so expect around 850 g to 1.1 kg of yarn on the finished dress.
Hook
- 4 mm (US G/6).
Notions
- 12 locking stitch markers.
- 3 buttons, ½ in (12–15 mm).
- Tapestry needle, measuring tape and scissors.
Gauge
- Body stitch (1 round dc, 1 round sc) on a 4 mm hook: 20 sts × 12 rounds = 4 in (10 cm). That's 6 dc rounds and 6 sc rounds.
- One round of dc measures about 0.4 in (1 cm). The lace rounds of the yoke and sleeves are the same height.
Check the gauge before you start. A difference of 1 stitch per 4 in changes the bust of size M by almost 2 in. If you have fewer than 20 sts, go down a hook size. If you have more, go up one.
Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- dc2tog: double crochet 2 together
- fpdc / bpdc: front / back post double crochet
- sk: skip
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rnd(s): round(s)
- RS / WS: right side / wrong side
The stitches
Spoke lace (yoke and sleeves). A spoke is a column of 2 dc. Between the spokes you chain, and you always skip the chain space of the round below. So the spokes stack straight up, and every round adds one more loose chain between them, like the rungs of a ladder. As the chains get longer, the rungs start to sag into small arches. That's the web.
Body stitch (bodice and skirt). Odd rounds are dc, even rounds are sc. Start each dc round with ch 3 (counts as a dc) and each sc round with ch 1 (doesn't count). Join every round with a sl st to the first st. The work is never turned in this part.
Shell band (waist). A round of 5-dc shells, then a round that fills the dips back to a straight line. It leaves a row of eyelets for the tie.
Fan lace (hem and cuffs). Fans of dc sit on single crochet, and V-stitches between them build the next fans. The chains between them get a little longer each round, so the border flares out.
Size chart
| Size | To fit bust | Finished bust | Finished waist (before the tie) | Upper arm | Wrist | Length from neckline | Yarn |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 30–32 in | 33¼ in / 84 cm | 28¾ in | 13¼ in | 8¾ in | 42¼ in | 2,250 yd |
| S | 33–35 in | 36½ in / 93 cm | 32½ in | 14 in | 8 in | 43¼ in | 2,400 yd |
| M | 36–37 in | 38¾ in / 98 cm | 34¾ in | 14½ in | 9 in | 43½ in | 2,520 yd |
| L | 38–40 in | 42 in / 107 cm | 38½ in | 16 in | 10 in | 44¾ in | 2,720 yd |
| XL | 42–45 in | 47½ in / 121 cm | 43¼ in | 18 in | 10 in | 45½ in | 2,950 yd |
The dress has about 1 to 3 in of ease at the bust. The waist is cut only about 4 in smaller than the bust on purpose: the dress has to go over your shoulders. The tie does the fitting. The length is mid-calf on someone around 5 ft 5 in (165 cm). You can add length in the skirt, see the FAQ.
Instructions are written XS (S, M, L, XL). When only one number is given, it applies to every size.
The pattern, step by step
Part 1: The lace yoke
The yoke is worked from the neckline down. Rows 1 to 8 are worked flat, back and forth, which leaves the back opening. From Round 9 you join and work in the round.
Ch 74.
Row 1 (RS): Dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (72 sts: the skipped ch count as the first dc)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc here and on every row and round of the yoke). Dc in each st across, ending in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (72 sts)
These two solid rows make the neckline edge. Now the spokes start.
Row 3: Ch 3, dc in the next dc. Ch 1, dc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * 35 times. Turn. (36 spokes, 35 ch-1 sps)
Every following row and round: Ch 3, dc in the next dc. Ch the number for that row (see the table), sk the ch-sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * across, with the last dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn.
Round 9 (joining round): Work as a row. At the end, don't turn. Ch the same number again and join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (36 spokes, 36 ch-sps) From now on, work in rounds with the RS facing, and every round ends with a ch-sp and a join.
How long is each chain? It grows by one every few rows:
| Rows/rounds | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ch 1 | 3–7 | 3–6 | 3–6 | 3–6 | 3–6 |
| ch 2 | 8–11 | 7–10 | 7–9 | 7–10 | 7–9 |
| ch 3 | 12–15 | 11–14 | 10–12 | 11–13 | 10–12 |
| ch 4 | 16–19 | 15–17 | 13–15 | 14–16 | 13–15 |
| ch 5 | – | 18–20 | 16–18 | 17–19 | 16–18 |
| ch 6 | – | – | 19–21 | 20–22 | 19–21 |
| ch 7 | – | – | – | – | 22–24 |
Stop after Round 19 (20, 21, 22, 24). The yoke measures about 7½ (8, 8½, 8¾, 9½) in from the neckline, and your last chain is ch 4 (5, 6, 6, 7). Don't fasten off.
Try it on before you divide. The bottom of the yoke should reach your underarms. Cotton lace stretches a little in length once the skirt hangs from it, so if you're between two rounds, choose the shorter one.
Part 2: Divide for the sleeves and work the bodice
Count your spokes from the start of the round. Spokes 1–6 are half the back, 7–12 are the first sleeve, 13–24 are the front, 25–30 are the second sleeve, and 31–36 are the other half of the back. It helps to place a marker in the first spoke of each section.
Body Round 1 (dc, divide): Ch 3, dc in the next dc. Work 3 (4, 5, 5, 6) dc in the next ch-sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * 5 times (you're at the end of spoke 6). Ch 26 (23, 18, 26, 29) for the underarm. Sk the next ch-sp, spokes 7–12 and the ch-sp after them. Dc in each of the 2 dc of spoke 13. Work 3 (4, 5, 5, 6) dc in the next ch-sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * 11 times (to the end of spoke 24). Ch 26 (23, 18, 26, 29). Sk the next ch-sp, spokes 25–30 and the ch-sp after them. Dc in each of the 2 dc of spoke 31. Work 3 (4, 5, 5, 6) dc in the next ch-sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * 5 times. Work 3 (4, 5, 5, 6) dc in the last ch-sp. Join. (166 (182, 194, 210, 238) sts)
You work one dc fewer than the chain count into each space. That gathers the lace very slightly, so the bodice starts snug instead of wavy.
Place the dart markers. On the front, place a marker in the first dc of the 4th spoke and of the 9th spoke (counting across the 12 front spokes). Do the same on the back. These 4 markers make two dart lines on the front and two on the back.
Rounds 2–8: Work in the body stitch: sc on even rounds, dc on odd rounds. In Round 2, work 1 sc in each underarm ch. (166 (182, 194, 210, 238) sts)
Dart Rounds 9, 11, 13, 15 and 17 (dc): Dc in each st, working dc2tog over each marked st and the st after it. Move each marker up into the dc2tog. (4 sts fewer each time) Work the sc rounds in between as usual.
After Round 17 you have 146 (162, 174, 190, 218) sts.
Rounds 18 to 19 (21, 21, 23, 23): Keep going in the body stitch without shaping, ending with a dc round. The bodice measures about 6¼ (7, 7, 7½, 7½) in from the underarm. Remove the markers.
Part 3: The waist band and tie
Band Round 1 (sc): Ch 1, sc in each st around, decreasing 2 sts (no change, no change, increasing 2 sts, decreasing 2 sts) evenly. Join. (144 (162, 174, 192, 216) sts)
Band Round 2 (shells): Ch 1. Sc in the next st, sk 2, 5 dc in the next st, sk 2. Repeat from * around. Join to the first sc. (24 (27, 29, 32, 36) shells)
Band Round 3 (eyelets): Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2). Sc in the 3rd dc of the next shell, ch 2. Dc in the next sc, ch 2, sc in the 3rd dc of the next shell, ch 2. Repeat from * around. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5.
Band Round 4 (sc): Ch 1, sc in the same st. 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp. Sc in the next dc, 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp. Repeat from * around. Join. (144 (162, 174, 192, 216) sts)
The band is about 1½ in tall.
The tie (make 1): Leaving a 4-inch tail, ch 300 (about 60 in). Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch back to the start. Fasten off and knot both ends. Once the dress is finished, weave the tie in and out of the ch-2 sps of Band Round 3, starting and ending at the center front, and tie a small bow. Prefer it at the side? Start and end there instead.
Part 4: The skirt
The skirt keeps the body stitch and grows by 12 sts every 4 rounds.
Set up the gores. Place 12 markers evenly around Band Round 4, about every 12 (13–14, 14–15, 16, 18) sts.
Skirt Round 1 (dc, increase): Ch 3. Dc in each st around, working 2 dc in each marked st. Move each marker up into the second dc of the pair. Join. (156 (174, 186, 204, 228) sts)
Rounds 2–4: Body stitch, no increases (sc, dc, sc).
Repeat Rounds 1–4 until you've worked 63 rounds in all, ending with an increase round. That's 16 increase rounds (Rounds 1, 5, 9 … 61). Round 62 is sc, and Round 63 is a plain dc round.
You now have 336 (354, 366, 384, 408) sts. The skirt measures about 20½ in from the waist band.
The markers stack, so the increases make 12 faint gore lines down the skirt. Because you always move the marker to the second dc, the lines lean very gently and the skirt hangs in soft folds instead of points.
Part 5: The fan lace hem
Border Round 1 (sc): Ch 1, sc in each st around, no change (decreasing 2 sts, increasing 2 sts, no change, no change) evenly. Join. (336 (352, 368, 384, 408) sts: a multiple of 8)
Border Round 2 (first fans): Ch 1. Sc in the next st, sk 3, 7 dc in the next st, sk 3. Repeat from * around. Join to the first sc. (42 (44, 46, 48, 51) fans)
Border Round 3 (V-stitches): Ch 5 (counts as a dc and ch 2), dc in the same sc. Ch 2, sc in the 4th dc of the next fan, ch 2, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next sc. Repeat from * around, leaving out the last V. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5.
Border Round 4 (fans): Sl st into the first ch-2 sp (the center of the first V). Ch 3, 8 dc in the same sp. Sc in the next sc, 9 dc in the center sp of the next V. Repeat from * around, leaving out the last fan. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3. Skip the ch-2 sps on either side of each sc.
Border Round 5 (V-stitches, longer): Sl st in each of the next 4 dc (you're on the center dc of the fan). Ch 1, sc in the same dc. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next sc, ch 3, sc in the 5th dc of the next fan. Repeat from * around, leaving out the last sc. Join to the first sc.
Border Round 6 (fans, spaced): Sl st in the next ch-3 sp, sl st in the next dc, sl st in the center sp of the V. Ch 3, 8 dc in the same sp. Ch 1, sc in the next sc, ch 1, 9 dc in the center sp of the next V. Repeat from * around, leaving out the last fan. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3.
Border Rounds 7–12: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 three more times.
Border Round 13 (scalloped edge): Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1). (Dc in the next dc, ch 1) 7 times, dc in the last dc of the fan. Sk the ch-1, sc in the next sc, sk the ch-1. Dc in the first dc of the next fan, (ch 1, dc in the next dc) 8 times, sk the ch-1, sc in the next sc, sk the ch-1. Repeat from ** around. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. Fasten off.
The border is about 6¼ in deep. It flares by roughly half again from Round 1 to the edge, which gives the hem its swing.
Part 6: The sleeves (make 2)
The sleeves continue the yoke lace straight down the arm. The chains get shorter toward the wrist, which tapers the sleeve with no decreases at all.
Sleeve Round 1: With the RS facing, join the yarn in the free loop of the first underarm ch at one end of the underarm. Ch 3, dc in the next free loop. *Ch 4 (5, 6, 6, 7), sk 4 (5, 6, 6, 7) loops, dc in each of the next 2 loops.* Repeat from * 4 (3, 2, 3, 3) times (you've used every underarm loop). Ch 4 (5, 6, 6, 7) and sk the ch-sp beside the sleeve. Dc in each of the 2 dc of the next spoke, ch 4 (5, 6, 6, 7), sk the next ch-sp. Repeat from * 6 times. Join to the top of the beginning ch-3. (11 (10, 9, 10, 10) spokes)
Following rounds: Ch 3, dc in the next dc. Ch the number for that round, sk the ch-sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * around, then ch and join.
| Rounds | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| first chain | ch 4: 1–14 | ch 5: 1–11 | ch 6: 1–11 | ch 6: 1–11 | ch 7: 1–9 |
| second chain | ch 3: 15–28 | ch 4: 12–22 | ch 5: 12–22 | ch 5: 12–22 | ch 6: 10–18 |
| third chain | ch 2: 29–41 | ch 3: 23–32 | ch 4: 23–32 | ch 4: 23–33 | ch 5: 19–27 |
| fourth chain | – | ch 2: 33–42 | ch 3: 33–42 | ch 3: 34–43 | ch 4: 28–35 |
| fifth chain | – | – | – | – | ch 3: 36–43 |
Stop after Round 41 (42, 42, 43, 43). The sleeve measures about 16½ (17, 17, 17½, 17½) in from the underarm. Want it shorter? Stop earlier, but keep at least 4 rounds of the last chain so the wrist stays narrow.
If your hands are wide, try the sleeve over your hand before the last chain step. If it's tight, keep the previous chain length to the end.
The cuff:
Cuff Round 1 (sc): Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each dc of the spokes and 1 sc for each ch in the ch-sps around, increasing 4 (no change, increasing 3, decreasing 2, decreasing 2) evenly. Join. (48 (40, 48, 48, 48) sts)
Cuff Rounds 2–4: Work Border Rounds 2, 3 and 4 of the hem. (6 (5, 6, 6, 6) fans)
Cuff Round 5 (scalloped edge): Ch 4 (counts as a dc and ch 1). (Dc in the next dc, ch 1) 7 times, dc in the last dc of the fan, sc in the next sc. Dc in the first dc of the next fan, (ch 1, dc in the next dc) 8 times, sc in the next sc. Repeat from ** around. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. Fasten off.
Make the second sleeve the same way in the other armhole.
Part 7: The mock neck collar and back opening
Collar Row 1 (RS): With the RS facing, join the yarn in the first free loop of the foundation ch, at one edge of the back opening. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in each free loop across. Turn. (72 sts)
Collar Row 2 (WS): Ch 2 (doesn't count). Bpdc around the next st, fpdc around the next st. Repeat from * across. Turn. (72 sts)
Collar Rows 3–6: Ch 2. Work each st as it faces you: fpdc around the posts that stand toward you, bpdc around the ones that sit back. Turn.
Collar Row 7 (sc): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Don't fasten off.
The collar stands about 2½ in tall, with soft vertical ribs.
Edge the back opening. Without turning, work down the edge of the opening: sc evenly down the collar and the row ends of yoke Rows 1–8 (2 sc in each dc row end, 1 sc in each sc row end). At the bottom of the opening, sl st into the first st of Round 9, then sc evenly back up the other edge. On this second edge, make 3 button loops: one at the top of the collar, one at the neckline, and one at the bottom of the opening. For each loop, ch 5 and sk 2 sts. Fasten off.
Sew the 3 buttons to the first edge, opposite the loops.
The back opening is about 6 in long, and it's what lets the high collar go over your head. Don't skip it.
Finishing and blocking
- Weave in every tail through at least 6 sts, then back the other way. Hide tails along the spokes, never across the open chains, where they show.
- Wet block the dress. Soak it in cool water, roll it in a towel to press out the water and lay it flat on a large clean sheet or blocking mats. Spread the yoke so the spokes run straight from the neck, open each fan of the hem and the cuffs with your fingers, and pin the scallops. Let it dry fully, flat.
- Thread the tie through the eyelets of the waist band and tie a bow at the front or at the side.
- The fabric is solid but not opaque. I like a plain slip underneath, in a color close to the yarn or close to your skin.
Care
Hand wash in cool water. Never hang a wet cotton dress: the weight of the water stretches the lace yoke for good. Lay it flat to dry and reshape it while damp. Don't tumble dry, since cotton shrinks in heat. Store the dress folded in a drawer, not on a hanger, for the same reason.
Frequently asked questions
How much yarn do I need for this crochet maxi dress? About 2250 (2400, 2520, 2720, 2950) yd of DK #3 cotton for sizes XS to XL. In Paintbox Cotton DK that's 17 (18, 19, 20, 22) balls of 50 g. Most of it goes into the skirt, so buy one extra ball if you plan to lengthen it.
Can I make the dress longer or shorter? Yes, in the skirt. Before the hem, every 4 rounds (one increase round and three plain rounds) adds or removes about 1¼ in. Keep the increase rhythm, then work Border Round 1 to the nearest multiple of 8. Each extra 4 rounds uses roughly 100 (100, 105, 110, 120) yd.
Can I make a midi or knee-length version? Yes. Stop the skirt after Round 39 for a dress about 8 in shorter, which falls around the knee on most people. You'll have 264 (282, 294, 312, 336) sts, so work Border Round 1 to 264 (280, 296, 312, 336) sts. You'll need about 600 (630, 650, 690, 730) yd less.
Is the lace yoke see-through? Yes, that's the look: the chains leave open spaces between the spokes, so you see skin across the shoulders and down the arms. If you'd like more coverage, wear a fitted long-sleeved top or a bodysuit in a matching color underneath.
Can I use a different yarn? Any DK #3 yarn that matches the gauge works. A cotton blend with bamboo or linen makes the dress lighter and drapier. Wool or acrylic DK will be warmer and stretchier, so swatch and wash the swatch first.
Can I sell dresses made from this pattern? Yes, you can sell finished dresses you've made yourself. Please credit "Pattern by Wavode" and link back to this page. Please don't republish the written pattern or my photos.
Related patterns on Wavode
- Sage flare crochet skirt: a flared skirt if you'd like to practice the A-line shaping first.
- Crochet ribbed collar top: a cropped top with a ribbed collar.
- Balloon sleeve crochet sweater: a cozy pullover with full, gathered sleeves.
- Crochet summer sweater: an airy cotton pullover with eyelet stripes.
Made this dress? Tag #wavodecrochet on Pinterest. I re-pin every finished make and credit the maker.
Pattern by Clara Hartwell for Wavode. Questions? Email me at support@wavode.com.
