Crochet Baby Sundress Pattern
This free crochet baby sundress pattern makes a cream summer dress with a ridged bodice, a full skirt that spreads out like a picnic blanket, little pastel flowers all over it, and ribbon straps tied in bows on the shoulders. It's worked top-down in one piece, so there are no side seams. You'll need DK cotton, a 4 mm hook, about 610 yards of cream for the middle size and scraps for the flowers. It comes in 3 sizes, 0 to 24 months.
Key Takeaways
- One piece, top-down: a tube of ridged single crochet for the bodice, then a skirt that grows every other round.
- The open skirt texture comes from working each double crochet into the space between two stitches.
- 30 (36, 40) five-petal flowers in four pastels, each one sewn down at the center and at every petal tip.
- Ribbon straps tie on the shoulders, so the dress grows with the baby and has no buttons.
Why I love this little sundress
Some dresses are about the shape. This one is about the flowers. The cream background is calm on purpose, so the pastel flowers pop like a meadow on a sunny day. It's the dress I'd make for a first birthday in the garden, a summer christening or a baby shower gift that gets opened with a gasp.
The construction is as simple as a dress can be. The bodice is a straight tube of single crochet in the back loops, which gives those neat horizontal ridges and a little stretch. The skirt starts right under it and grows every other round, so it flares into a wide, twirly bell. There's no armhole to shape and no neckline to fit.
The ribbon straps do the fitting for you. You sew four short ribbons inside the top edge and tie them on the shoulders. Tie them shorter for a tiny baby, longer as the baby grows.
The flowers are the fun part, and they're a great way to use up cotton scraps. Each one takes a few minutes, and you can make them in front of the TV while the dress waits.
Skill level. Advanced beginner. You need ch, sl st, sc, sc in the back loops, hdc, dc, a magic ring, working in joined rounds, and a little sewing with a needle.
What you'll need
Yarn: DK #3 cotton, such as Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yd / 125 m per 50 g) or Scheepjes Catona (in 50 g balls of 136 yd). Cotton is soft and breathable against baby skin, and it shows the stitch texture clearly.
| Color | Used for | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Cream | Bodice, skirt, edges | 500 (610, 750) yd: 4 (5, 6) balls of Paintbox Cotton DK |
| White | Flower petals | about 25 yd |
| Butter yellow | Flower petals | about 25 yd |
| Blush pink | Flower petals | about 25 yd |
| Sky blue | Flower petals | about 25 yd |
| Marigold orange | Flower centers | about 40 yd |
I worked the cream amount out from the stitch count, round by round, with about 10% extra for the swatch and the ends. Buy all the cream from one dye lot. The flower colors are perfect for leftovers.
Hooks and notions
- 4 mm (US G/6) hook, plus a 4.5 mm (US 7) for the foundation chain only.
- 1¼ yd (1.2 m) of satin ribbon, ⅜ in (10 mm) wide, in peach or apricot.
- Sewing needle and cream sewing thread.
- A tapestry needle, stitch markers, a measuring tape and scissors.
Sizes
Choose the size by chest measurement, not age. The dress has about 1½ in (4 cm) of ease, so it slips on easily over a onesie or a diaper cover.
| Size | Fits chest | Finished chest | Bodice length | Skirt length | Length from top edge |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0–6 months | 16–17 in (41–43 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) | 3½ in (9 cm) | 7½ in (19 cm) | 11½ in (29 cm) |
| 6–12 months | 17½–18 in (44–46 cm) | 19¼ in (49 cm) | 4 in (10 cm) | 8½ in (21.5 cm) | 12¾ in (32 cm) |
| 12–24 months | 18½–19½ in (47–50 cm) | 20½ in (52 cm) | 4½ in (11.5 cm) | 9½ in (24 cm) | 14½ in (37 cm) |
The pattern is written for the smallest size, with the other two in parentheses: 0–6 (6–12, 12–24) months. If only one number is given, it's the same for all sizes.
Gauge
- Bodice: 20 sc × 22 rounds = 4 in (10 cm) in sc in the back loops, worked in joined rounds.
- Skirt: 18 sts × 10 rounds = 4 in (10 cm) in spaced dc.
The bodice gauge matters most, because it sets the chest size. Check it after 8 rounds: the tube should measure 18 (19¼, 20½) in around. If it's bigger, go down half a hook size. If it's smaller, go up. The skirt is forgiving, and you'll measure its length as you go.
Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- MR = magic ring
- sp(s) = space(s)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd(s) = round(s)
- RS = right side
UK crocheters: this pattern uses US terms. US single crochet = UK double crochet, US half double = UK half treble, and US double crochet = UK treble crochet.
Special stitch
- Spaced dc (sp-dc): a dc worked into the space between two dc of the round below, not into the top of a stitch. A round of 135 dc has 135 spaces. The last one sits between the last dc and the first dc of the round, just before the join.
Every round is joined and worked without turning, with the RS facing you. Start each round at the join, which sits at the center back of the dress.
The pattern — step by step
Part 1 — The bodice
The bodice is a straight tube. The foundation chain becomes the top edge of the dress, and you work down toward the waist.
Foundation: With cream and the 4.5 mm hook, ch 90 (96, 102). The bigger hook keeps the chain loose, so the top edge stretches. Switch to the 4 mm hook. Check that the chain isn't twisted, then sl st into the first ch to make a ring.
- Rnd 1: Ch 1 (doesn't count as a st), sc in the same ch as the join and in each ch around. Sl st to the first sc. (90, 96, 102)
- Rnds 2–19 (2–22, 2–25): Ch 1, sc in the back loop only of each st around. Sl st to the first sc. (90, 96, 102)
The front loops you skip stay on the RS as neat horizontal ridges. The bodice now measures about 3½ (4, 4½) in from the chain. Wrap it around the baby's chest, or hold it against a well-fitting top. It should go around with a little room to spare. Don't fasten off.
Part 2 — The skirt
Keep going with the cream yarn from the bodice. The skirt grows by 15 (16, 17) sts on every odd round from Rnd 3 to Rnd 17. On Rnds 5, 9, 13 and 17, the increases are shifted by half a repeat, so they don't stack in lines and the skirt stays round.
- Rnd 1: Ch 2 (doesn't count as a st), working in both loops, *dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st*. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the first dc. (135, 144, 153)
- Rnd 2: Ch 2, sp-dc in each sp around. Sl st to the first dc. (135, 144, 153)
- Rnd 3 (increase): Ch 2, *sp-dc in the next 8 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 14 (15, 16) more times. Sl st to the first dc. (150, 160, 170)
- Rnd 4 and every even round to Rnd 16: Work like Rnd 2. The count stays the same as the round before.
- Rnd 5 (shifted increase): Ch 2, sp-dc in the next 4 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp, *sp-dc in the next 9 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 13 (14, 15) more times, sp-dc in the last 5 sps. Sl st to the first dc. (165, 176, 187)
- Rnd 7 (increase): Ch 2, *sp-dc in the next 10 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 14 (15, 16) more times. Sl st to the first dc. (180, 192, 204)
- Rnd 9 (shifted increase): Ch 2, sp-dc in the next 5 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp, *sp-dc in the next 11 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 13 (14, 15) more times, sp-dc in the last 6 sps. Sl st to the first dc. (195, 208, 221)
- Rnd 11 (increase): Ch 2, *sp-dc in the next 12 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 14 (15, 16) more times. Sl st to the first dc. (210, 224, 238)
- Rnd 13 (shifted increase): Ch 2, sp-dc in the next 6 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp, *sp-dc in the next 13 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 13 (14, 15) more times, sp-dc in the last 7 sps. Sl st to the first dc. (225, 240, 255)
- Rnd 15 (increase): Ch 2, *sp-dc in the next 14 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 14 (15, 16) more times. Sl st to the first dc. (240, 256, 272)
- Rnd 17 (shifted increase): Ch 2, sp-dc in the next 7 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp, *sp-dc in the next 15 sps, 2 sp-dc in the next sp*. Repeat from * 13 (14, 15) more times, sp-dc in the last 8 sps. Sl st to the first dc. (255, 272, 289)
- Rnds 18–19 (18–21, 18–24): Work like Rnd 2. (255, 272, 289)
The skirt should now measure about 7½ (8½, 9½) in from the waist. If you want it longer, add even rounds now. Each extra round adds about ⅖ in (1 cm) and takes roughly 25 (27, 29) yd.
Hem
- Rnds 1–2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to the first sc. (255, 272, 289)
Fasten off and weave in the end. The two sc rounds give the hem a firm, rounded edge that holds the flare.
Top edge. With the RS facing, turn the dress upside down. Join cream with a sl st in the free loop of the foundation chain at the center back. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each free loop around. Sl st to the first sc. (90, 96, 102) Fasten off and weave in the end.
Part 3 — The flowers, ribbons and finishing
Flower (make 30 (36, 40)). Make about the same number in each petal color: white, butter yellow, blush pink and sky blue.
- Rnd 1: With marigold orange, MR, ch 1, 10 sc in the ring. Pull it closed tight and sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (10)
- Rnd 2: Join the petal color with a sl st in any sc. *(Hdc, 3 dc, hdc) in the next st, sl st in the next st*. Repeat from * 4 more times, working the last sl st in the same st as the join. (5 petals)
Fasten off, leaving a 10-in (25 cm) tail. Weave the orange tails into the back of the center. Each flower is about 1¾ in (4.5 cm) across.
Little variation: for a few flowers, swap the orange center for a pale yellow or a pink one. A pink center on a white flower and a pale yellow one on a blue flower look lovely mixed in.
Place the flowers. Lay the dress flat. Pin the flowers in 4 staggered tiers around the skirt, each flower sitting between the two above it:
| Tier | Where | 0–6 mo | 6–12 mo | 12–24 mo |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | About 1 in below the waist | 5 | 6 | 7 |
| 2 | One third of the way down | 7 | 8 | 9 |
| 3 | Two thirds of the way down | 8 | 10 | 11 |
| 4 | About 1¼ in above the hem | 10 | 12 | 13 |
Mix the colors so two flowers of the same color never touch. Turn the dress around and check the back too, then move any flower that looks crowded.
Sew the flowers. With the petal tail and a tapestry needle, sew around the orange center first, through the skirt only. Then tack the tip of each petal down with two small stitches. No petal is left loose for little fingers to pull. Knot the tail on the inside and weave it in.
Place the ribbon markers. Lay the dress flat with the join at the center of the back. The two folds are the sides. On the front, count 11 (12, 13) sts in from each side fold along the top edge and place a marker. Do the same on the back. You now have 4 markers, one for each ribbon.
Sew the ribbons. Cut 4 pieces of ribbon, each 12 (13, 14) in / 30 (33, 36) cm long. Seal the ends with a dab of fray stopper, or pass polyester ribbon very quickly near a flame. Fold 1 in (2.5 cm) under at one end of each ribbon. Lay the folded end on the inside of the bodice at a marker, so the fold covers the top ¾ in (2 cm) of the bodice. With doubled sewing thread, sew a small rectangle around the folded part, through the ribbon and the bodice. Go around twice. These seams carry the weight of the dress, so make them firm.
Tie the bows. Put the dress on the baby with the ribbons untied. On each shoulder, tie the front ribbon to the back ribbon in a knot, then in a bow. Trim the ends to about 2½ in (6 cm), then seal them again.
Weave in all the ends through at least 6 sts, in two directions.
Safety and care. This is a dress for supervised daytime wear, not for sleeping. Keep the bow ends short, about 2½ in, and check every time that the flowers and ribbons are firmly sewn. Don't let the baby chew on the ribbons. Hand wash in cool water with a mild baby soap, roll in a towel and dry flat. A wet cotton skirt hung up will stretch longer.
Make it yours — quick variations
| Variation | Change from base pattern |
|---|---|
| Daisy field | Make every flower white with a yellow center, on a sage green or butter yellow dress. |
| Crochet straps | Instead of ribbon, ch 61 (66, 71) with cream, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, and use 4 of these as ties. |
| Tunic top | Stop the skirt at Rnd 12 (13, 14) and work the hem. Sew the flowers in 2 or 3 tiers and wear it over leggings. |
| Doll-sized | Make 6 or 8 flowers only, for a calmer dress, and put them all in Tier 1 and Tier 4. |
Troubleshooting
The bodice rolls at the top
A tight foundation chain pulls the top edge in. Rework it with the 4.5 mm hook, or even a 5 mm, and keep the sc round on the top edge relaxed.
The skirt is wavy at the hem
The skirt has more stitches than your row height can carry, usually because your dc are short. Work the last 2 or 3 rounds before the hem with a 4.5 mm hook to give them more height, or skip the increase on Rnd 17.
The skirt has corners or lines
The increases are stacking. Check that you started Rnds 5, 9, 13 and 17 with the half repeat. Blocking also evens out the flare.
The flowers cup or curl
The petal round is too tight around the center. Work the petals a little looser, or press each flower flat under a damp cloth before sewing it on.
Frequently asked questions
How long does this crochet baby sundress take? A week or two of evenings, flowers included. The skirt takes the longest, because each round gets longer. The flowers are quick, a few minutes each, and they're easy to make on the go.
How much yarn do I need? About 500 (610, 750) yd of DK cream cotton, which is 4 (5, 6) balls of Paintbox Cotton DK. The flowers use scraps: about 25 yd of each petal color and about 40 yd of orange for the centers.
Can I use worsted cotton instead of DK? Worsted makes a bigger, heavier dress. If you use worsted #4 cotton with a 5 mm hook, make the next size down and check the bodice gauge after 8 rounds. Be aware that a worsted skirt is a lot heavier on the ribbon straps.
How do I put the dress on the baby? Untie the ribbons first. Then step the baby into the dress from below, or slip it over the head, whichever is easier. The ridged bodice stretches a little. Pull it up under the arms and tie the bows on the shoulders.
Can I sell dresses made from this pattern? Yes, you're welcome to sell finished sundresses made from this free pattern at markets, on Etsy or as gifts. Please credit "Pattern by Wavode" in your listing and link back to this page. What you can't do is republish this write-up or my photos as your own pattern.
Related patterns on Wavode
- Crochet baby sandals with daisies: little flower sandals to wear with the sundress.
- Primrose twirl baby dress: a cream shell-stitch dress with flutter sleeves.
- Rosebud baby booties: classic cream booties with a little bow.
- Hooded crochet baby romper: a cozy outfit for cooler days.
- Crochet daisy coaster: more flowers to use up the pastel scraps.
Made a flower sundress? Tag #wavodecrochet on Pinterest. I re-pin every finished make and credit the maker.
Pattern by Clara Hartwell for Wavode. Questions? Email me at support@wavode.com.
