Cute Crochet Mary Jane Baby Shoes

These cute crochet Mary Jane baby shoes are cream slippers with little burgundy dots, a scalloped burgundy edge, a strap across the instep and a big bow on the toe. Each shoe is worked in one piece from the sole up. Then you add the scalloped edge and the strap in burgundy, embroider the dots and sew on the bow. You'll need worsted cotton in two colors, a 4 mm hook and about 3 to 4 hours for the pair. There are 3 sizes, from 0 to 12 months.

Key Takeaways

• One-piece shoe: sole, sides and toe are worked in joined rounds. The edge and strap are crocheted straight onto the shoe.
• The strap is crocheted in at both ends, so there are no buttons. The foot slides in under it.
• The dots are embroidered with a few stitches each, so you can space them however you like.
• Small amounts: about 45 (65, 80) yd of cream and 35 (40, 45) yd of burgundy for the pair.

Why I love these shoes

What makes a Mary Jane look like a Mary Jane? Two things: a low, open shoe and a strap across the top of the foot. This pattern keeps both and adds the details that make it sweet: polka dots, a scalloped edge and a bow that's a little too big, on purpose.

The shoe itself is simple, just rounds of single crochet. The burgundy pieces do the work. A round of burgundy at the edge of the sole draws a neat line around the bottom. A row of little scallops frames the opening, and the strap and bow match it.

I love cream and burgundy for a holiday or winter baby, but the same pattern looks fresh in white with navy dots, or blush with cream.

Skill level. Easy. You need ch, sl st, sc, sc2tog, hdc, dc and tr (only in the bow), plus a tapestry needle for the dots and the bow. Working in the back loop only and changing color at a join are the only techniques that might be new, and I explain both.

If you'd rather have a taller bootie that stays on with a tie, try my ribbed cuff crochet baby booties. They use the same sole and toe.

What you'll need

Yarn (worsted or aran weight #4 cotton)

Color	Used for	Amount for the pair, 0–3 (3–6, 6–12) months
Cream	Sole and shoe	about 45 (65, 80) yd
Burgundy	Sole edge, scalloped rim, strap, bow and dots	about 35 (40, 45) yd

• I like Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran (93 yd / 85 m per 50 g): 1 ball of each color covers every size. Lily Sugar 'n Cream is also worsted #4 and works well.
• I've worked these amounts out from the stitch count, plus about 15% for the swatch and the ends. They're estimates, so keep a little extra.

Hook

• 4 mm (US G/6). That's a little small for worsted cotton on purpose. The fabric comes out firm, so the shoes hold their shape.

Notions

• Three to five stitch markers, a tapestry needle and scissors.

Gauge

18 sc × 20 rnds = 4 in (10 cm) with the 4 mm hook. Easier still: check the sole. When it's finished, it should be about 3½ (4, 4½) in / 9 (10, 11.5) cm long. Measure the swatch and the sole lying flat, without stretching them, and both in the same state (both before washing or both after). If yours is longer, go down half a hook size. If it's shorter, go up half a size.

Size chart

Size	Baby's foot length	Sole length	Opening, around
0–3 months	up to 3¼ in / 8.3 cm	about 3½ in / 9 cm	about 6¼ in / 16 cm
3–6 months	up to 3¾ in / 9.5 cm	about 4 in / 10 cm	about 7 in / 18 cm
6–12 months	up to 4¼ in / 10.8 cm	about 4½ in / 11.5 cm	about 8 in / 20 cm

Measure the baby's foot from heel to longest toe and pick the size by foot length, not by age. The sole is a little longer than the foot so there's room to wiggle. Instructions are written 0–3 (3–6, 6–12) months. When only one number is given, it applies to every size.

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (a decrease)
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet (yarn over twice, then work off the loops two at a time)
• BLO: back loop only
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd(s): round(s)

How the shoe is built

Here's the whole shape in one sentence. The sole is a flat oval with a burgundy last round, the cream sides go straight up from it, and two rounds of decreases shape a rounded toe that leaves a wide opening. A burgundy round and a row of scallops finish the opening. Then the strap is worked across it, from one side to the other. Every round is joined near the heel, a few stitches to one side of its middle, so the joins stay at the back.

Both shoes are identical. There's no left or right.

Changing color at a join. Work the last sl st of the round with the new color: insert the hook in the first st, drop the old color, and pull the new color through. Leave 4 in (10 cm) tails of both colors and weave them in later on the inside.

The pattern, step by step

Part 1: The sole (cream, last round burgundy)

Work in joined rounds. Ch 1 at the start of each round (it doesn't count as a stitch) and join with a sl st to the first sc. Don't turn.

The oval has a heel end and a toe end. You start at the heel, so every round begins and ends near the back.

With cream, ch 11 (12, 13).

• Rnd 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (heel), sc in the next 8 (9, 10) ch, 3 sc in the last ch (toe). Now rotate the piece (don't turn it over) and keep going along the other side of the chain, working into the free loops of the same chains: sc in the next 8 (9, 10) ch, which brings you back to the 2nd ch from the hook, the one holding your very first sc. Work 2 more sc into that same ch, so it now holds 3 sc, like the toe end. Join to the first sc. (22 (24, 26) sc: 1 + 8 (9, 10) + 3 + 8 (9, 10) + 2)
• Rnd 2: 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, 2 sc in each of the last 2 sts. Join. (28 (30, 32))
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (34 (36, 38))

0–3 months: change to burgundy as you join Rnd 3, and work Rnd 4 in burgundy.

• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (40 (42, 44))

0–3 months: the sole is done, with 40 sts and a burgundy last round. 3–6 months: change to burgundy as you join Rnd 4, and work Rnd 5 in burgundy.

• Rnd 5, 3–6 and 6–12 months only: Sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 9 (10) sts, sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 9 (10) sts, sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (48 (50))

3–6 months: the sole is done, with 48 sts and a burgundy last round. 6–12 months: change to burgundy as you join Rnd 5, and work Rnd 6 in burgundy.

• Rnd 6, 6–12 months only: Sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 10 sts, sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 10 sts, sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (56)

You now have 40 (48, 56) sts. The sole is a flat cream oval with a burgundy outline, about 3½ (4, 4½) in long and 1⅝ (2, 2⅜) in wide (9 (10, 11.5) × 4 (5, 6) cm). Change back to cream as you join this last round. Cut the burgundy, leaving a tail.

Place a toe marker now. Fold the sole in half lengthwise and put a stitch marker in the middle of the rounded toe end. You'll center the toe decreases on it, and later the bow. In the 0–3 and 6–12 sizes the marker falls between the 2 middle stitches of the toe end. In the 3–6 size it sits on the middle stitch.

Part 2: The sides and the rounded toe (cream)

Keep working in joined rounds with ch 1 at the start.

• Rnd 1: Working in the BLO, sc in each st around. Join. (40 (48, 56)) The free front loops of the burgundy round stay on the outside as a neat burgundy line where the sole meets the sides.
• Rnd 2 to Rnd 4 (5, 5): Sc in each st around, in both loops. Join. (40 (48, 56))

As you work the side rounds, move the toe marker up each round so it stays in line with the center of the toe.

Now shape the toe. The decreases sit right at the front, centered on the toe marker.

• Rnd 5 (6, 6), first toe round: Sc in the next 10 (11, 13) sts, sc2tog 8 (10, 12) times, sc in the last 14 (17, 19) sts. Join. (32 (38, 44))
• Rnd 6 (7, 7), second toe round: Sc in the next 10 (10, 11) sts, sc2tog 4 (6, 8) times, sc in the last 14 (16, 17) sts. Join. (28 (32, 36))

The stitch counts are measured from the join, which sits near the heel, and they're worked out so the decreases land on the toe. In the first toe round, the 8 (10, 12) sc2tog use sts 11 to 26 (12 to 31, 14 to 37), counted from the join, and that run is centered on the middle of the toe end of the sole. The check that always works: the decreases split evenly around your toe marker. In the 0–3 size that's 4 sc2tog on each side in the first toe round and 2 on each side in the second. In the 6–12 size, 6 and then 4. In the 3–6 size the marker sits on a stitch rather than between two: the first toe round has 5 sc2tog before the marker, then 1 sc2tog whose first stitch is the marked one, then 4 after. The second toe round has 3 before, 1 that starts on the marked stitch again, and 2 after. That's the half-stitch offset, and it doesn't show. If your joins have drifted and the run lands to one side, shift it, keeping the same number of decreases.

The toe is now a rounded cap, and the rest is a wide, low opening, the classic Mary Jane shape. Change to burgundy as you join this round.

Part 3: The scalloped edge and the strap (burgundy)

The edge.

• Rnd 7 (8, 8): Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (28 (32, 36) sc)
• Rnd 8 (9, 9), scallops: Ch 1. Sl st in the next st, 3 hdc in the next st. Work from * to * 14 (16, 18) times in total. Join with a sl st to the first sl st. (14 (16, 18) scallops) Fasten off and weave in the end on the inside.

Each scallop is a little fan of 3 hdc, about ¼ in (6 mm) tall, and the sl sts between them sit low on the rim. The strap goes into those sl sts.

Mark the strap points. Lay the shoe flat, with the toe marker at the front fold. The opposite fold is the middle of the heel. On each side, find the sl st between two scallops that sits halfway between the toe and the heel, and mark it. Count the scallops from each marker to the toe marker: the two sides should match. Remove the toe marker.

The strap. It's 3 rows deep and crocheted in at both ends.

Before you start, measure straight across the opening between the two markers. It's about 1⅝ (2, 2⅜) in / 4 (5, 6) cm, the width of the sole. The strap is longer than that so it can arch over the foot.

Name the anchor points first. On each side, the strap uses 3 neighboring sts of the scalloped round:

• Point 1 is the marked sl st.
• Point 2 is the next st toward the heel, the first hdc of the scallop behind it.
• Point 3 is the st after that, the middle hdc of that same scallop.

Call them L1, L2, L3 on the left side and R1, R2, R3 on the right side. If it helps, put a marker in L3 and R3 too.

1. Join burgundy with a sl st in L1.
2. Ch 15 (16, 17): about 3¼ (3½, 3¾) in / 8.5 (9, 9.5) cm, unstretched. Check that the chain isn't twisted, then sl st in R1.
3. Sl st in R2. Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each of the 15 (16, 17) ch back across the strap. Sl st in L2.
4. Sl st in L3. Ch 1 and turn. Sc in each sc across. Sl st in R3. Fasten off and weave in the ends along the strap.

Each row ends one stitch further toward the heel than the row before, so the three rows sit side by side on the rim at both ends.

The finished strap is about ½ in (1.3 cm) wide and should arch over the opening by about ¾ in (2 cm) at its middle, so the top of the foot fits under it. If yours lies flat, work it again with 2 more ch.

Part 4: The dots and the bow (burgundy)

The dots. Each dot is a few tiny stitches over one cream sc, so it looks like one burgundy stitch.

1. Thread a 20 in (50 cm) length of burgundy on the tapestry needle. Leave a 3 in tail inside the shoe.
2. From the inside, come up at the bottom of the "V" of a cream sc. Go back down at the top of the same V.
3. Repeat in the same two holes 2 more times. The 3 strands fill the V into a small, solid dot.
4. Move on to the next dot along the inside, without pulling the yarn tight.

Where to put them. I place them in staggered rows, like polka dots:

• On side Rnd 2, a dot in every 4th st all the way around.
• On side Rnd 4, a dot in every 4th st again, but shifted by 2 sts so these dots sit between the ones below.
• On the toe cap, 3 to 5 dots spaced out between those two rows.

Keep the dots off the sole. Weave each end in under several stitches on the inside, so there are no loose strands for toes to catch.

The bow (make 2 wings per shoe).

• Wing: Ch 8. The stitches get taller as you move away from the slip knot, so the wing opens out like a fan.
  • Side 1: sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, tr in each of the next 2 ch, 3 tr in the last ch (the outer end).
  • Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: tr in each of the next 2 ch, dc in each of the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch, then sc in the last ch. That last ch is the 2nd ch from the hook: the first sc already sits in its top loops, and this sc goes into its free bottom loop.
  • Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25 cm) tail. (15 sts: 1 + 1 + 2 + 2 + 3 on side 1, then 2 + 2 + 1 + 1 on side 2)

The wing is a wide fan, almost a triangle: narrow and flat at the slip-knot end, where both tails are, and wide with a gently rounded edge at the outer end. It's about 1½ in (4 cm) long and 1¼ in (3 cm) across at its widest.

Assemble the bow. Put the two wings side by side, narrow ends touching in the middle and wide ends pointing out. Cut 12 in (30 cm) of burgundy and wrap it 6 to 8 times tightly around the middle where they meet, to pinch them into a bow. Knot it at the back, then run its ends under the wraps.

Sew on the bow. Center the bow on the toe cap, just in front of the scalloped edge, with the wings spreading sideways. With the wing tails, sew through the center wraps and into the toe cap and the burgundy rim, at least 8 to 10 times, going deep each time. Then tack each wing down at its middle with 2 or 3 small stitches so it can't flip up. Weave the tails in on the inside.

Make a second shoe exactly the same way.

Finishing

• Weave every end in well. Run each tail through at least 6 sts in one direction, then back the other way, on the inside. Little toes catch on loose ends.
• Block lightly (optional). Stuff each shoe with a rolled sock, shape the toe round, smooth the scallops and the bow, mist with water and let it dry. Skip this if your shoes already look right.
• Add grip (optional). For a baby who's starting to stand, dot the sole with puffy fabric paint and let it dry fully. Cotton soles are slippery on hard floors.

Putting them on. Point the baby's toes, slide them in under the strap and into the toe, then ease the heel down into the back of the shoe.

Safety. There are no buttons on these shoes. The strap is crocheted in at both ends, and the bow is sewn on through the toe and the rim. Still, a sewn-on bow is a part a baby can tug at. Tug-test it before every wear, and if it ever feels loose, sew it on again before the next wear. If you'd rather have nothing sewn on at all, leave the bow off. The shoes still look like Mary Janes. Cotton shoes are slippery, so they're best for babies who aren't walking yet, unless you add grip dots.

Make them yours — quick variations

Variation	Change from base pattern
Classic white and navy	Work the shoe in white and all the burgundy parts in navy.
No dots	Skip the embroidery for a plain cream shoe with a burgundy trim.
Knit-in dots	If you're comfortable with color changes, work the dot stitches as burgundy sc in the round, carrying the burgundy inside the shoe.
No bow	Leave the bow off, or embroider a small burgundy heart on the toe instead.
Buttoned strap	Crochet the strap in at one side only, end it with a ch-3 loop, and sew a button on the other side. Use this only for older babies, and check the button before every wear.

Troubleshooting the four things that go wrong

The sole cups or ruffles

A cupped sole means your increases are too tight. A ruffled one means your stitches are taller than mine. Check that the increases sit only at the two ends, then change the hook by half a size. The sole should lie flat before you start the sides.

The burgundy line doesn't show at the bottom

Side Rnd 1 has to go into the back loops only. If you work it in both loops, the burgundy round folds under the sole and disappears.

The scallops flare

Three hdc in one stitch on a 4 mm hook should sit flat. If yours ruffle, work them as (hdc, dc, hdc) with a smaller hook, or as 3 sc for a flatter little picot edge.

The foot won't go in under the strap

The strap is too short or too low. Undo it and work it again with 2 more ch. It should arch about ¾ in (2 cm) above the opening.