Free Crochet Baby Booties with a Ribbed Cuff and Tie

These free crochet baby booties have a ribbed cuff that folds down and a little chain tie that keeps them on. Each bootie is worked in one piece: an oval sole, straight sides, a rounded toe, a row of eyelets at the ankle and a ribbed cuff on top. You thread a crocheted cord through the eyelets and tie it in a bow, so the booties stay on kicking feet. You'll need about 115 (145, 185) yd of worsted cotton for the pair, a 4 mm hook and roughly 3½ to 4½ hours. There are 3 sizes, from 0 to 12 months.

Key Takeaways

• One piece, no seams: sole, sides, toe, ankle and cuff are worked in joined rounds. The tie is a separate crocheted cord.
• A tie that actually works: the ankle opens wide for dressing, and the cord pulls it snug.
• Only basic stitches plus front and back post double crochet for the ribbing, explained step by step.
• Three sizes, 0–3, 3–6 and 6–12 months, picked by foot length.

Why I love these booties

Why do so many baby booties end up under the car seat? Because a plain slipper slides off the moment a baby kicks. This pair fixes that with two small things: a tie at the ankle and a cuff that hugs the leg.

The ankle is made a little roomy on purpose. You slide the bootie on with no wrestling, then pull the tie and knot it. The ribbed cuff sits above the tie, and you fold its top half down. It looks soft and chunky, and the extra layer keeps the ankle warm.

I make them in lavender because it's gentle and works for any baby, but they're lovely in cream, sage or pale grey too. They're a quick baby shower gift, and every part is crocheted, so there's nothing to buy beyond the yarn.

Skill level. Easy. You need ch, sl st, sc, sc2tog, dc, and front and back post double crochet (fpdc and bpdc). If you've never worked post stitches, don't worry. I explain them in Part 3, and the ribbing is just two stitches repeated.

If you'd like a bootie with a flower around the ankle instead, have a look at my easy crochet baby booties with a petal cuff. They use the same sole and toe.

What you'll need

Yarn (worsted or aran weight #4 cotton)

Size	Amount for the pair (ties included)
0–3 months	about 115 yd / 105 m
3–6 months	about 145 yd / 133 m
6–12 months	about 185 yd / 170 m

• I like Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran (93 yd / 85 m per 50 g). That's 2 (2, 3) balls of one color. The 6–12 month size needs almost exactly two balls, so buy three to be safe. Lily Sugar 'n Cream is also worsted #4 and works well.
• I've worked these amounts out from the stitch count, plus about 15% for the swatch and the ends. They're estimates, so keep a little extra.

Hook

• 4 mm (US G/6). That's a little small for worsted cotton on purpose. The fabric comes out firm, so the booties hold their shape.

Notions

• Two stitch markers, a tapestry needle and scissors.

Gauge

18 sc × 20 rnds = 4 in (10 cm) with the 4 mm hook. Easier still: check the sole. When it's finished, it should be about 3½ (4, 4½) in / 9 (10, 11.5) cm long. Measure the swatch and the sole lying flat, without stretching them, and both in the same state (both before washing or both after). If yours is longer, go down half a hook size. If it's shorter, go up half a size.

Size chart

Size	Baby's foot length	Sole length	Ankle opening, around (before tying)
0–3 months	up to 3¼ in / 8.3 cm	about 3½ in / 9 cm	about 6¼ in / 16 cm
3–6 months	up to 3¾ in / 9.5 cm	about 4 in / 10 cm	about 7 in / 18 cm
6–12 months	up to 4¼ in / 10.8 cm	about 4½ in / 11.5 cm	about 8 in / 20 cm

Measure the baby's foot from heel to longest toe and pick the size by foot length, not by age. The sole is a little longer than the foot so there's room to wiggle. The ankle is wider than a baby's ankle on purpose: the tie closes it up. Instructions are written 0–3 (3–6, 6–12) months. When only one number is given, it applies to every size.

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (a decrease)
• dc: double crochet
• fpdc: front post double crochet (worked around the post of the stitch below, from the front)
• bpdc: back post double crochet (worked around the post of the stitch below, from the back)
• sp: space
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd(s): round(s)

How the bootie is built

Here's the whole shape in one sentence. The sole is a flat oval, the sides go straight up from its edge, two rounds of decreases pull in the toe, a few plain rounds make the ankle, then come a round of eyelets for the tie and a ribbed cuff on top. Every round is joined near the heel, a few stitches to one side of its middle, so the join line stays at the back.

Both booties are identical. There's no left or right.

The pattern, step by step

Part 1: The sole

Work in joined rounds. Ch 1 at the start of each round (it doesn't count as a stitch) and join with a sl st to the first sc. Don't turn.

The oval has a heel end and a toe end. You start at the heel, so every round begins and ends near the back.

Ch 11 (12, 13).

• Rnd 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (heel), sc in the next 8 (9, 10) ch, 3 sc in the last ch (toe). Now rotate the piece (don't turn it over) and keep going along the other side of the chain, working into the free loops: sc in the next 8 (9, 10) ch, then 2 more sc in the same ch as the first sc (that ch now holds 3 sc, like the toe end). Join. (22 (24, 26) sc: 1 + 8 (9, 10) + 3 + 8 (9, 10) + 2)
• Rnd 2: 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, 2 sc in each of the last 2 sts. Join. (28 (30, 32))
• Rnd 3: Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (34 (36, 38))
• Rnd 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 8 (9, 10) sts, sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (40 (42, 44))

0–3 months: the sole is done. You have 40 sts.

• Rnd 5, 3–6 and 6–12 months only: Sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 9 (10) sts, sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 9 (10) sts, sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (48 (50))

3–6 months: the sole is done. You have 48 sts.

• Rnd 6, 6–12 months only: Sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 10 sts, sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st 3 times, sc in the next 10 sts, sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st 2 times. Join. (56)

You now have 40 (48, 56) sts. The sole is a flat oval about 3½ (4, 4½) in long and 1⅝ (2, 2⅜) in wide (9 (10, 11.5) × 4 (5, 6) cm). The increases always sit at the two rounded ends, and the long sides stay straight. Don't fasten off.

Place a toe marker now. Fold the sole in half lengthwise and put a stitch marker in the middle of the rounded toe end. You'll center the toe decreases on it in Part 2, and it tells you where the front of the tie goes in Part 3. In the 0–3 and 6–12 sizes the marker falls between the 2 middle stitches of the toe end. In the 3–6 size it sits on the middle stitch.

Part 2: The sides and the rounded toe

Keep working in joined rounds with ch 1 at the start.

• Rnd 1 to Rnd 4 (5, 5): Sc in each st around. Join. (40 (48, 56))

As you work the side rounds, move the toe marker up each round so it stays in line with the center of the toe. The sides now stand up from the edge of the sole. Working Rnd 1 in both loops gives a soft, rounded edge. For a crisp line around the sole, work Rnd 1 in the back loop only instead.

Now shape the toe. The decreases sit right at the front, centered on the toe marker.

• Rnd 5 (6, 6), first toe round: Sc in the next 10 (11, 13) sts, sc2tog 8 (10, 12) times, sc in the last 14 (17, 19) sts. Join. (32 (38, 44))
• Rnd 6 (7, 7), second toe round: Sc in the next 10 (10, 11) sts, sc2tog 4 (6, 8) times, sc in the last 14 (16, 17) sts. Join. (28 (32, 36))

The stitch counts are measured from the join, which sits near the heel, and they're worked out so the decreases land on the toe. Check the position: each run of sc2tog should be centered on your toe marker. If your joins have drifted and the run lands to one side, shift it (see Troubleshooting). (In the 3–6 size, the first run ends up half a stitch to one side, which doesn't show.) The toe pulls in and curves up into a rounded cap, and the opening moves toward the back, over the heel.

The second toe round has fewer decreases than a classic slipper. That leaves a wider ankle, which makes dressing easy. The tie takes care of the fit.

Part 3: The ankle, the eyelets and the ribbed cuff

The ankle. Keep going in joined rounds with ch 1 at the start, and keep moving the toe marker up.

• Rnd 7 to Rnd 8 (8 to 9, 8 to 10): Sc in each st around. Join. (28 (32, 36))

The eyelet round. This round makes the little holes the tie goes through.

• Rnd 9 (10, 11): After the join of the round below, your hook sits in the first st. Ch 4 from there: it counts as a dc in that first st plus a ch-1. Skip the next (2nd) st. Dc in the next st, ch 1, skip the next st. Work from * to * 13 (15, 17) times in total. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the starting ch-4. (14 (16, 18) dc and 14 (16, 18) ch-1 sps)
• Rnd 10 (11, 12): Ch 1. Sc in the same st as the join (the top of the starting ch-4, your first dc). Sc in the next ch-1 sp, sc in the next dc. Work from * to * 13 (15, 17) times in total. Sc in the last ch-1 sp. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (28 (32, 36) sc: 1 + 26 (30, 34) + 1)

You can see the eyelets clearly now: a ring of small holes, all the same size. Find the two holes on either side of your toe marker and mark them. They're the front pair, where the tie comes out. Then remove the toe marker.

The ribbed cuff. The cuff starts with one round of plain double crochet, so the post stitches have something to grip.

• Rnd 11 (12, 13): Ch 2 (doesn't count as a st). Dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (28 (32, 36) dc)

Now the ribbing. Post stitches go around the stitch below rather than into its top loops:

• Fpdc: Yarn over, insert the hook from the front, around the back of the post (the upright "leg") of the stitch below, and out to the front again. Finish like a normal dc. The stitch sits forward.

• Bpdc: Yarn over, insert the hook from the back, around the front of the post, and out to the back again. Finish like a normal dc. The stitch sits back.

• Rnd 12 to Rnd 16 (13 to 17, 14 to 19): Ch 2 (doesn't count as a st). Fpdc around the next st, bpdc around the next st. Work from * to * all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first fpdc. (28 (32, 36) sts) On every round, work fpdc around the fpdc below and bpdc around the bpdc below, so the ribs stack up in straight columns.

That's 5 (5, 6) ribbing rounds. Post stitches are a little shorter than plain dc, and their height depends on your tension, so measure the cuff before you fasten off. Aim for about 2½ (2½, 3) in / 6.5 (6.5, 7.5) cm from the top of the sc round above the eyelets, measured flat. If yours is shorter, add one ribbing round. If it's much taller, leave the last one out. Fasten off and weave in the end on the inside.

Part 4: The tie and the folded cuff

Make the cord (make 2, one per bootie). A plain chain in cotton stretches, so I slip stitch back along it to make it firmer.

1. Leave a 4 in (10 cm) tail and ch 60 (65, 70), or until the chain measures about 15 (16, 17) in / 38 (41, 43) cm without stretching.
2. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in the back bump of each ch along. Fasten off.
3. The cord should now measure about 14 (15, 16) in / 36 (38, 41) cm. Tie a small, tight overhand knot at each end. The knots stop the ends from fraying and make the cord easier to grip when you tie the bow. Weave each tail back into the cord through its knot, then trim it close.

Thread the tie. Thread one end of the cord onto the tapestry needle.

1. Start at the front. From the outside, go in through one of the two marked front eyelets.
2. Work around the ankle: out through the next eyelet, in through the one after, and so on.
3. Finish by coming out through the other marked front eyelet. Both ends now hang on the outside at the front, over the toe. Because there are 14 (16, 18) eyelets, an even number, the ends always come out on the outside.
4. Pull the ends level.

Anchor the cord (optional, but I always do it). At the center back, use a short length of yarn to sew the cord to the bootie with 3 or 4 small stitches through the sc round just under the eyelets. Now a curious baby can't pull the tie out.

Fold the cuff. Fold the top half of the ribbed cuff down to the outside. The folded edge lands just above the tie, so the bow sits right under the fold. Fpdc and bpdc ribbing looks like ribbing on both sides, so the folded part matches the rest.

Make a second bootie exactly the same way.

Put them on. Open the tie fully, slide the bootie on, pull the cord snug (one finger should still slip in at the ankle) and tie a double-knotted bow at the front.

Finishing

• Weave every end in well. Run each tail through at least 6 sts in one direction, then back the other way, on the inside. Little toes catch on loose ends.
• Block lightly (optional). Stuff the bootie with a rolled sock, fold the cuff down, mist everything with water and let it dry. The toe gets rounder and the fold stays put. Skip this if your booties already look right.
• Add grip (optional). For a baby who's starting to stand, dot the sole with puffy fabric paint and let it dry fully. Cotton soles are slippery on hard floors.

Safety. Keep the bow short and double-knotted, and anchor the cord at the back, so no long loop can catch a finger or toe. Check the bow, the anchor stitches and every end before each wear. I don't add a button to these: a sewn-on button can work loose, and small parts are a choking hazard for children under 3. If you want the look of one, embroider a little cluster of French knots on the cuff instead. Cotton booties are slippery, so they're best for babies who aren't walking yet, unless you add grip dots.

Make them yours — quick variations

Variation	Change from base pattern
Two-tone	Work the sole and sides in cream, and the ankle, cuff and tie in lavender. Change color at the start of the ankle rounds.
Ribbon tie	Thread a ⅜ in (1 cm) satin ribbon through the eyelets instead of the cord. Seal its ends so they don't fray, and anchor it at the back the same way.
Shorter cuff	Work only 3 (3, 4) ribbing rounds and don't fold it.
Taller cuff	Add 2 ribbing rounds and fold it down twice. Allow about 10 more yd for the pair.
No tie	For a snugger ankle, work the second toe round as: sc in the next 8 (8, 9) sts, sc2tog 6 (8, 10) times, sc in the last 12 (14, 15) sts. You'll have 26 (30, 34) sts. Skip the eyelet round and the cord, and work the ankle and cuff over that count.

Troubleshooting the four things that go wrong

The sole cups or ruffles

A cupped sole means your increases are too tight. A ruffled one means your stitches are taller than mine. Check that the increases sit only at the two ends, then change the hook by half a size. The sole should lie flat before you start the sides.

The toe looks off-center

Each run of sc2tog has to be centered on the toe marker. If it lands to one side, your joins may have drifted a stitch over the rounds. Shift the decreases so they're centered on the marker, keeping the same number: 32 (38, 44) sts after the first toe round, and 28 (32, 36) sts after the second.

The tie ends come out on opposite sides

You've skipped an eyelet or gone through one twice. Count them: there should be 14 (16, 18), and the cord must pass through every one exactly once, alternating in and out.

The ribbing leans or looks flat

Post stitches need room, so keep them a little looser than your sc. If the ribs look flat, check that you're working fpdc around the stitches that stick out and bpdc around the ones that sit back. Swap them and the ribbing disappears.