Wearablescrochet toddler dress pattern

Plum Blossom Dress

Clara Hartwell, Wavode pattern designer
By Clara Hartwell
17 min read
Free pattern · Step by stepJump to the crochet steps
Plum Blossom crochet toddler dress pattern: a deep plum crochet toddler dress with a square neckline edged in small 3D plum flowers, short sleeves ringed with flowers, a fine half double crochet bodice, a full V-stitch skirt and a row of flowers above a scalloped hem, hanging on a small light oak hanger against a cream wall, with a matching plum flower headband hanging from the hanger hook

The Plum Blossom Dress is a free crochet toddler dress pattern with a square neckline, short sleeves and a full skirt, all trimmed with little 3D flowers in the same deep plum. The bodice is two flat panels sewn at the shoulders and sides. The skirt is worked straight down from the waist, and the sleeves are picked up from the armholes. You'll need DK cotton, a 4 mm hook and about 690 yards for the middle size, including a matching flower headband. It comes in 3 sizes, 6 months to 3 years.

Key Takeaways

  • Two flat bodice panels in half double crochet, with a square front neck and a buttoned keyhole at the back.
  • The skirt flares without increases: the V-stitches get wider every few rounds and turn into shells.
  • Tonal 3D flowers trim the neckline, the sleeves and the hem, all in one color.
  • A matching headband uses the same flower, so the set is done with one yarn.

Why I love this dress

I wanted a party dress that feels grown-up without a single fussy stitch. Working the flowers in the same plum as the dress is the secret: they add texture and shadow instead of color, so the whole dress reads as one rich piece. It's perfect for a birthday, a wedding or the holiday photos.

The bodice is the calm part. Half double crochet makes a fine, close fabric that keeps its shape and holds the flowers well. The square neckline comes from simply stopping in the middle of the front and working two straps.

The skirt does the dancing. It starts with a gathered round at the waist, then V-stitches that grow into bigger Vs and finally into shells. The fabric gets lacier and wider as it goes down, so you get a full, swingy skirt with no increase math at all.

The flowers are tiny and quick, and they're what people notice first. Make a little pile of them while you watch TV, and sew them on at the very end.

Skill level. Intermediate. You need ch, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, V-stitches and shells, working in rows and in joined rounds, picking up stitches along an edge, and some sewing. Every step is simple, but there are several parts to put together.

What you'll need

Yarn: DK #3 cotton in one deep color, such as Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yd / 125 m per 50 g) or Scheepjes Catona (136 yd per 50 g). Plum, berry, burgundy or a dusty rose all look lovely. Cotton is breathable and washes well, and it shows the flowers crisply.

Part Amount
Dress (bodice, skirt, sleeves, edging) about 430 (530, 690) yd
Flowers for the dress about 130 (135, 155) yd
Headband with 5 flowers about 25 yd
Total 580 (690, 870) yd: 5 (6, 7) balls of Paintbox Cotton DK

I worked these amounts out from the stitch count, part by part, with about 10% extra for the swatch and the ends. The flowers take more yarn than you'd think, so don't skip them in your budget. Buy all of it from one dye lot.

Hook and notions

  • 4 mm (US G/6) hook.
  • A tapestry needle, stitch markers, a measuring tape and scissors.
  • No hard button: the back closes with a small crochet button.

Sizes

Choose the size by chest measurement. The dress has about 2 in (5 cm) of ease, so it's comfy over a onesie or a vest.

Size Fits chest Finished chest Bodice from waist to shoulder Skirt length Length from shoulder
6–12 months 18–19 in (46–48 cm) 20½ in (52 cm) 6½ in (16.5 cm) 7½ in (19 cm) 14½ in (37 cm)
12–24 months 19–20 in (48–51 cm) 21¼ in (54 cm) 7½ in (19 cm) 8¾ in (22 cm) 16½ in (42 cm)
2–3 years 20½–21½ in (52–55 cm) 23 in (58 cm) 8 in (20.5 cm) 10½ in (27 cm) 19 in (48 cm)

The pattern is written for the smallest size, with the other two in parentheses: 6–12 months (12–24 months, 2–3 years). If only one number is given, it's the same for all sizes.

Gauge

18 hdc × 13 rows = 4 in (10 cm) with a 4 mm hook, worked flat.

Gauge matters for the bodice, because it sets the chest. Check it on the back panel after 6 rows: the panel should measure 10¼ (10¾, 11½) in across. If it's wider, go down half a hook size. If it's narrower, go up. The skirt is forgiving, and you'll measure its length as you go.

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)

  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • MR = magic ring
  • sp(s) = space(s)
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • rnd(s) = round(s)
  • RS / WS = right side / wrong side

UK crocheters: this pattern uses US terms. US single crochet = UK double crochet, US half double = UK half treble, and US double crochet = UK treble crochet.

Special stitches

  • V-st: (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same st or sp.
  • Big V: (dc, ch 2, dc) in the same sp.
  • Shell: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp.

In the bodice rows, ch 2 at the start of a row doesn't count as a st. Make the first hdc in the first st.

The pattern — step by step

Part 1 — The bodice panels

Both panels start at the waist and are worked up to the shoulders. The foundation chain becomes the waistline, and the skirt is worked into it later.

Back panel

Foundation: Ch 48 (50, 54).

  • Row 1 (RS): Hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (46, 48, 52)
  • Rows 2–8 (2–10, 2–11): Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (46, 48, 52)

The panel measures about 2½ (3, 3⅓) in from the chain. That's the part of the bodice below the arm.

  • Row 9 (11, 12) — armholes: Turn. Sl st in the first 4 sts, ch 2, hdc in the same st as the last sl st and in each st across to the last 3 sts. Leave the last 3 sts unworked. (40, 42, 46)
  • Next 2 (3, 4) rows: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (40, 42, 46)

Keyhole opening. Now the back splits in two halves, which makes the opening that lets the dress go over the head.

  • First half: Ch 2, turn, hdc in the first 20 (21, 23) sts only. Work 7 more rows on these sts. (20, 21, 23)
  • Shoulder, 2 rows: Work only the 9 (10, 11) sts at the armhole edge for 2 more rows, and leave the 11 (11, 12) sts at the center unworked for the back neck. If a row starts at the center edge, sl st across the 11 (11, 12) neck sts first, then ch 2 and hdc in the shoulder sts. The neck edging covers those sl sts later. Fasten off.
  • Second half: With the same side facing as on the first row of the first half, join yarn in the first unworked st at the center of the split. Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in the remaining 19 (20, 22) sts. Work it exactly like the first half, mirrored, so the shoulder is at the armhole edge. Fasten off.

The back now has 13 (14, 15) rows above the armhole on each side, with a 10-row opening in the middle.

Front panel

Work exactly like the back up to and including the armhole row, then:

  • Next 5 (5, 6) rows: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. (40, 42, 46)

Square neck.

  • First strap: Ch 2, turn, hdc in the first 9 (10, 11) sts only. Work 6 (7, 7) more rows on these sts. Fasten off. (9, 10, 11)
  • Second strap: Skip the next 22 (22, 24) sts for the neck. With the same side facing, join yarn in the next st. Ch 2, hdc in the same st and in the last 8 (9, 10) sts. Work 6 (7, 7) more rows. Fasten off. (9, 10, 11)

Both straps have 7 (8, 8) rows, so the front also has 13 (14, 15) rows above the armhole.

Step 1 of the Plum Blossom crochet toddler dress pattern: a plum foundation chain with the first row of half double crochet, the back panel growing in rows, the armhole row with three stitches left unworked at each side, the back split into two halves for the keyhole, the front panel with a square neck between two straps, and the two finished panels side by side

Part 2 — Assembly and the skirt

Sew the bodice. Lay the front on top of the back, RS together. Whipstitch each front strap to the matching back shoulder, across the 9 (10, 11) sts. Then sew each side seam from the waist up to the armhole, over the 8 (10, 11) rows below the arm. Turn the bodice RS out.

The skirt is worked in joined rounds into the free loops of both foundation chains, with the RS facing. There are 92 (96, 104) free loops around the waist.

  • Rnd 1: Join yarn at one side seam. Ch 2 (doesn't count as a st), *hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st*. Repeat from * around. Sl st to the first hdc. (138, 144, 156)
  • Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in the same st, *skip 2 sts, V-st in the next st*. Repeat from * 44 (46, 50) more times, skip the last 2 sts. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the ch-4. (46, 48, 52 V-sts)
  • Rnds 3–6: Sl st in the first ch-1 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in the same sp, V-st in each V-st sp around. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the ch-4. (46, 48, 52 V-sts)
  • Rnds 7–11: Sl st in the first ch sp, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in the same sp, big V in each V sp around. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the ch-5. (46, 48, 52 big Vs)
  • Rnd 12: Sl st in the first ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, shell in each big V sp around. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. (46, 48, 52 shells)
  • Rnds 13–17 (13–20, 13–24): Sl st in the next dc and in the ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, shell in each shell sp around. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. (46, 48, 52 shells)

The stitch count never changes. The skirt flares because each repeat gets wider: one chain in the V, then two, then a full shell. It should now measure about 7 (8¼, 10) in from the waist. Add or skip shell rounds to change the length. Each one adds about ⅖ in (1 cm).

Scalloped hem

  • Rnd 1: Ch 1, skip the next dc, 7 dc in the ch-2 sp, *sc in the gap between this shell and the next, 7 dc in the next ch-2 sp*. Repeat from * 44 (46, 50) more times, sc in the last gap. Sl st to the first dc. (46, 48, 52 scallops)

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Step 2 of the Plum Blossom crochet toddler dress pattern: the front and back panels sewn at the shoulders and sides, the first gathered round of half double crochet at the waist, V-stitch rounds below the bodice, the V-stitches widened into bigger Vs, the skirt in full shells measured from the waist, and the scalloped hem

Part 3 — Sleeves, neck edge and button

Sleeves (make 2). Each armhole has 3 + 3 sts left unworked at the underarm and 13 (14, 15) row ends on each side.

  • Rnd 1: With the RS facing, join yarn at the side seam, in the middle of the underarm. Ch 2 (doesn't count as a st). Hdc in each of the 3 unworked sts, then work 3 hdc in every 2 row ends up to the shoulder seam and down the other side. Hdc in the last 3 unworked sts. Sl st to the first hdc. (45, 48, 51)

If your count is off by one or two, fix it on Rnd 2 with an extra hdc or by skipping a st at the underarm.

  • Rnds 2–3: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc. (45, 48, 51)
  • Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to the first sc. (45, 48, 51)

Fasten off. The sleeve is a short, soft cap, about 1¼ in deep.

Neck edging. With the RS facing, join yarn at the bottom of the back opening. Ch 1. Work sc evenly all around the opening:

  • 3 sc in every 2 row ends up the keyhole edge, along the straps and down into the square neck.
  • 1 sc in each st across the bottom of the square neck and across the back neck.
  • Sc2tog at the two inner corners of the square neck, so they stay crisp.
  • 3 sc in each outer corner where a strap meets the neck.

At the top of the left keyhole edge (as worn), ch 6 for the button loop, then keep going with sc down that edge. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off.

Crochet button. MR, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring. Pull it closed tight. Sc in the back loop of each st around (6). Push the yarn tails inside, then pull the last loop closed. Fasten off with a long tail, and sew the button firmly at the top of the right keyhole edge, opposite the loop.

Step 3 of the Plum Blossom crochet toddler dress pattern: half double crochet picked up around the armhole, the short sleeve cap finished with a round of single crochet, single crochet edging around the square front neck, the back keyhole with a chain button loop, a tiny plum crochet button, and the back of the dress closed at the neck

Part 4 — The flowers, headband and finishing

Plum blossom (make 49 (50, 56) in all: 44 (45, 51) for the dress and 5 for the headband).

  • Rnd 1: MR, ch 1, 5 sc in the ring. Pull it closed tight and sl st to the first sc. (5)
  • Rnd 2: *(Sl st, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, sl st) in the next sc*. Repeat from * 4 more times. (5 petals)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-in (25 cm) tail. Each flower is about 1¼ in (3 cm) across. With all five petals worked into one round of just 5 sts, they crowd together and cup up a little, which gives the flower its 3D look.

Place and sew the flowers.

Where 6–12 mo 12–24 mo 2–3 yrs
Square neck: across the front bottom edge 3 3 5
Square neck: up each strap 3 + 3 3 + 3 3 + 3
Each sleeve, in a ring over Rnds 2–3 6 + 6 6 + 6 7 + 7
Hem, above every other scallop 23 24 26
Dress total 44 45 51

The neck flowers sit right on the edging, so their petals just touch the opening. The hem flowers sit on the last shell round, one above every other scallop.

Sew each flower with its tail and a tapestry needle. Go around the center first, then tack each petal tip down with one small stitch. Every flower should be firmly on, with no loose petals for little fingers to pull. Knot each tail on the WS and weave it in.

Headband.

  • Foundation: Ch 70 (74, 78). Check that the chain isn't twisted and sl st into the first ch to make a ring.
  • Rnd 1: Ch 2 (doesn't count as a st), hdc in each ch around. Sl st to the first hdc. (70, 74, 78)
  • Rnds 2–3: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Sl st to the first hdc. (70, 74, 78)

Fasten off. The band is about 15½ (16½, 17¼) in around and ¾ in wide, and it stretches a little. It should sit snug without leaving a mark: measure the child's head and make the band 1½ to 2 in (4–5 cm) smaller. Add or take away 4 or 5 ch for every inch.

Sew the 5 flowers in a tight cluster on one side of the band, slightly overlapping, with the middle one a little higher.

Weave in all the ends through at least 6 sts, in two directions.

Step 4 of the Plum Blossom crochet toddler dress pattern: a plum magic ring of five single crochet, five cupped petals worked into it, a little pile of finished plum flowers, the flowers sewn along the square neckline, a ring of flowers on the hem above the scallops, and the matching plum headband with a cluster of five flowers

Safety and care. The dress has no hard parts, but the flowers and the button are small. Check that they're firmly sewn before every wear. Take the headband off for naps and sleep, and never leave a little one alone in it. Hand wash in cool water, roll in a towel and dry flat. A wet cotton skirt hung up will stretch longer.

Make it yours — quick variations

Variation Change from base pattern
Two-tone Work the dress in cream and the flowers in plum, or the other way around.
Sleeveless Skip the sleeves and work only Rnd 4 (sc) around each armhole. Put the sleeve flowers on the straps instead.
Tunic Stop the skirt at Rnd 12 (13, 15) and work the hem. Wear it over leggings.
Bigger blooms Work Rnd 2 of the flower with (sl st, ch 3, 4 tr, ch 3, sl st) for a 1¾-in flower, and use about half as many.

Troubleshooting

The waist round ruffles

The waist round adds half again as many sts, which gathers the skirt. If yours ruffles, your hdc are tight. Work Rnd 1 with a 4.5 mm hook, then switch back.

The skirt doesn't flare enough

Your dc are short, so the Vs don't open. Start the big Vs and shells two rounds earlier, or work the last 4 shell rounds with (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc).

The square neck corners are rounded

Work the sc2tog right in the inner corner on the edging round, and don't stretch the neck while you sew the flowers on.

The dress won't go over the head

The keyhole is too short. Rip back the back halves and work 2 more rows before the shoulder rows. Then also add 2 rows to each front strap, so the shoulders still match.

Frequently asked questions

How long does this crochet toddler dress take? Two to three weeks of evenings, flowers and headband included. The panels go quickly. The skirt takes the longest, and the flowers take a few minutes each, so they're a nice job to do on the sofa.

How much yarn do I need? About 580 (690, 870) yd of DK cotton for the dress, the flowers and the headband: 5 (6, 7) balls of Paintbox Cotton DK. The flowers alone use about 130 to 155 yd, so plan for them.

Can I make the flowers in another color? Yes. Tonal flowers look rich and elegant, while contrast flowers look playful. Cream flowers on plum, or plum on cream, both work. Buy one extra ball of the flower color.

Is the headband safe for a baby? It's soft, with no elastic or hard parts, but anything around a baby's head should only be worn when someone is watching. Take it off for naps and sleep, and check the flowers are firmly sewn.

Can I sell dresses made from this pattern? Yes, you're welcome to sell finished Plum Blossom dresses at markets, on Etsy or as gifts. Please credit "Pattern by Wavode" in your listing and link back to this page. What you can't do is republish this write-up or my photos as your own pattern.

Related patterns on Wavode

Made a Plum Blossom dress? Tag #wavodecrochet on Pinterest. I re-pin every finished make and credit the maker.

Pattern by Clara Hartwell for Wavode. Questions? Email me at support@wavode.com.

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